Routes : North America : United States : Arizona : Phoenix Area : Superstition Mountains : Bark Canyon Wall : The Long Lead
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The Long Lead - 5.8
Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (7)
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Rock
gear to #3.5 camalot, medium stoppers especially helpful on pitch 2.
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Description:
P1: On the left side of Barks Canyon Wall, locate the short shallow open-book seam left of the obvious large left facing dihedral (Big Bruno). Climb up this awkward feature to a nice belay below an overhanging crack. P2: Step up and right to gain beautiful dihedral. Climb this until below large crack with overhang. Climb around this on the right face and continue up to a big belay ledge with two bolts. P3: Climb up the obvious chimney (30'-40'). Stay outside and pass chockstone w/ webbing and emerge on top of large chockstone directly below huge boulder chockstone blocking the chimney. From here stem wide left out onto face and make some dicey moves to top of overhead boulder. Belay from webbing around chockstone. P4: Numerous very easy, but unprotectable options exist to continue up chimney to top. Not even worth the effort since you then have to downclimb north to the Glory Road rap anchors. A much better option is to finish P3 and walk straight back in same chimney to its end where it forms a gap to the back (west) side with a rap anchor slung from a chockstone overhead. The walk off back to the base is a bit convoluted, but trail is fairly easy to follow. About 20-25 minutes is needed to get back to the base. A fun, worthwhile route. The dihedral on pitch 2 is classic.
Submitted by: fritzski on 2006-03-09
Views: 345
Route ID: 32564
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7 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 7 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | R |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
No one else can lead!!!
I had made the assumption that at least 1 of my 3 climbing partners could lead a pitch, but no. So, I lead the entire route and it was right on the edge of my abilities at the time. I couldn't walk the next day, and was in pain for a week. Great climb though. The view takes you by surprise when you turn around after clipping the second pitch anchor bolts.
I gave an R for safety, because if you lost it after clearing the second pitch dihedral, and before clipping your next protection? You would definitely get hurt, and probably severely. Also you're committed to 50' in the 3rd pitch chimney before you can place pro on the choke stone. Leave it to a medic to notice, and make note of it, but the scare was what I liked most.
Small Tri-Cams are very helpful especially the new micro ones. Yes I've been back since, and plan to go again. If trad at this level is your thing, then it's a must.
I gave an R for safety, because if you lost it after clearing the second pitch dihedral, and before clipping your next protection? You would definitely get hurt, and probably severely. Also you're committed to 50' in the 3rd pitch chimney before you can place pro on the choke stone. Leave it to a medic to notice, and make note of it, but the scare was what I liked most.
Small Tri-Cams are very helpful especially the new micro ones. Yes I've been back since, and plan to go again. If trad at this level is your thing, then it's a must.
Added: 2008-12-23
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| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
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Decent climbing, some loose rock on all pitches. 1st pitch has some awkward moves right off the ground. 2nd pitch crux is very technical stemming with only so-so pro (small stuff). Gotta be solid (but the climbing is quite good here). The descent was very...wandering.
Added: 2008-04-07
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
This climb is cool
I liked this one alot, especially the first pitch which I ran 180ft to just under the roof. The belay sucked and my ankles still hurt. Great climb, swallows gear. you will use all sizes. I still got gripped! haaaaaa
Added: 2007-05-05
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Ascent Note
fun route, good times. i think it's worth it to climb, good views...
Witnessed by: me_lad (morris)
Added: 2003-06-03
Added: 2003-06-03
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Ascent Note
No comment
Added: 2003-05-07
