bolts, cams nuts Pitch 1 a single set of cams. Pitch 2 a variety of cam sizes Pitch three--I took doubles to 3/4, singles to # 4. #4 essential. Pitch 4- a variety including #4. Pitch 5- a single set including # 4--two # 3?
This route is on the east face, and starts about 150 yards left of the spring. It shares a start with Don's Crack.
Pitch 1 Locate an old bolt with a leeper hanger, and a machine head (for back up) with an oval hanger. 15 feet right of these two is a new bolt with a good hanger. Climb to the new bolt, and traverse left to the leeper. Go back an remove your draw from the good bolt. It will only cause you rope drag grief. Locate a second bolt about 30 ft higher. Climb over suspect rock, moving right and left as features dictate. After clipping bolt, locate a third. There is medium sized gear between you and this bolt. Past the last bolt is good gear to the anchor--One bolt with a medium size back up cam. 5.10 R/X Pitch 2 We found this to be the easiest and most straight forward of the first five pitches. Follow leftward crack up to and over small roof (where crack ends). Continue feature to bolt with marginal gear. Further with more OK gear to another bolt, then a long easy run to the anchor--2 bolts. 5.10 PG/R Pitch 3--the business Spy three bolts with obvious climable features between---shallow deteriorating corner to first bolt--undercling directly left--protectable features with somewhat suspect gear--I used three pieces--one might have held---after undercling layback and highstep to second bolt. Spy two holes 10 ft up and left. Gun for them, they take excellent gear. Past these two holds is no-man's land. If you want the true experience, read no further because Kerry's book has a bit of bad information--to skip the character forming experience, read on.
Do no head straight up. The next bolt is about 15 feet higher and 7 ft left. It is hidden, but there is an excellent hold to snag if you arrive totally pumped. Above this bolt climbing is hard and thin--into the OW feature. Pull out your new # 4 Camalot and stuff it in. 15 more feet of hard weird climbing leads to a slot for a # 1 camalot. Past this, bust one more move and shove your heaving sweaty mass into the squeeze. Game is done. Slither with decent gear to one good bolt and a practically worthless nut . A variety of cam sizes will back this up. 11 C PG (11 A R if my partner was right that my first three pieces were useless) Big but mostly safe fall potential. Pitch 4 head directly right into the crack. Follow this with marginal gear for about 120 ft. 5.10 R Pitch 5 More business. Continue up the crack for about 70 ft. Marginal gear, particularly at first. As the crack peters out, look right for the passage; unfortunately, it all looks unlikely. Start rightward with a firm conviction the first ascentionist was not psycho. The moves go at insecure 5.9 After about 20 ft the climbing lets up, and you can place a marginal cam. Head straight up on easy climbing, and wallow into the oak tree, being careful not to touch the large loose blocks. Set up a belay with the tree and cams, and lower out to remove the last cam for your second. 5.10 R/X. Pitch 6 Follow the right side of the block above the tree to easy climbing. Wander to the top for 200 ft. 5.7 R
Complicated. Follow cairns. We did 4 rappels and trudged through snow.
Submitted by: stevecurtis on 2011-01-19
Route ID: 107747