North Face - 5.10c

This is really serious stuff. Each pitch is fun, but technical and very trad. The granite is good (excellent indeed) must of the time, unless you make a wrong choice. Route finding can be actually tricky in a couple of spots, but is a back-country route and there are not many bolted anchors anyway...
If you want some beta, keep reading:

- For the 1st (5.8), some medium size cams are enough. Reach up to bolted anchors in the base of a slab.
- Second is the technical crux (510c-R with friction moves). Pretty scary. There is a new bolt here. Go up and left about 9 feet from the bolts, and then traverse the unbelievable friction section the the right to a vertical crack (hand size gear here) then go up to a ledge. There, do a hard move to right into a jug. This move is scary. It can be protected with a small nut like 10 feet to the left of it. You could possibly also go straight up above the nut over a steep section, but there is no way to place any gear there and looks hard to climb. Even though going to the other way may not feel right at the beginning, because you are pretty far right form the last piece, once you get to the jug, is easy terrain all the way up the ledge and the tree. Awesome pitch!
- 3rd (5.9) some dihedral moves. Take full rack for these one. Is a long pitch. Station under a roof.
- 4th (5.9+) traverse right under the roof, and then up the dihedral with the tinny crack: Nuts and Microcams here. Pretty technical climbing since is hard to fit your fingers in the crack. Station in a ledge with small trees.
- 5th (5.8) the amazing traverse. You have to actually downclimb a little bit from the belay and got way right (about 120') to the base of a dihedral and small roofs. Protection is good and the rock is absolutely perfect. This is a fun pitch.
- 6th (5.10b). I think the original route goes up the dihedral and then right. This pitch is pretty dirty and loose though. We opted to climb a splitter just a little bit to the left. It takes you up to some steep rock and ledges. It turns out to be a great pitch, pretty clean except for a small tree in the beginning of crack. Rock on it is good, but it may have a few loose rocks high up the pitch. I put up a natural belay in a ledge with sharp flakes, but the is a bolted station 30 feet to the right (I didn't see it). Mostly medium size gear on this pitch.
- 7th (5.7) Climb up a dihedral to a ledge.
- 8th (5.10b/c R) This is definetly the mental crux of the route. Sustained 5.10 crack climbing takes you up to the end of the dihedral (finger and medium gear). There is a pretty bad looking bolt there and then an even worse looking pin. After clipping the pin, you can either go up the overhanging section until the crack opens up again, or traverse the delicate face to the right. After traversing, you get to a big flake and you have to go up more balancy face climbing and dominate a 5.10b/c mantle move about 15 feet above the shitty pin. I was able to put a #3 cam behind the flake down bellow. It makes a lot of rope drag without shortening the run out more than just little bit, but at least the protection is under you. Either way, the flake is hollow, so must be used wisely. If you fall and blow it out, you will actually have about 18 feet to the pin. On the other hand, be aware that there is a dihedral on the right, a fall from the mantle will swing you into it like a rocket. A piece of advise, make sure your mantle skills are polish and under control before trying this. I don't need to explain how exiting is this climb! Natural belay in the small ledge a bit higher (Dildo Ledge).
- 9th (5.9) you can make it to the top in a single long pitch from here. Take as much medium-large gear as you can get your hands on, without dismantling the station, and be ready to more real cracking... fun is not over yet! from finger cracks to chimneys, you'll find everything in this pitch.

Descent by walking to the back of the dome. There are some trees where you can rap down to a shoulder and bush-whack your way down to the base of the climb.