4th class to set of bolt anchors. Clip these and lower off until you can pendulum right to some nice chicken heads. It's best to not place pro until you are past the lower off point otherwise bring double ropes. If you avoid placing protection low then climb up nice chicken heads until you reach a two bolt belay or belay off of chicken heads (5.6 A0). Climb another pitch of chicken heads and belay about thirty feet from top. Traverse straight in horizontal crack until it's possible to climb straight up to top.
Submitted by: climblouisiana on 2002-08-08
Route ID: 21822
This route DOES NOT look 5.6 from the ground, but it definitely is. The approach was more difficult than the climb, especially the last chimney. There is a nice flake/chickenhead way out left to drape the rope over to protect the second on the first pitch.
Approach took just over an hour at a moderate pace walking from the West Stronghold. Very good climbing, only slung one chicken head for pro on each pitch. Sunny and very windy, my first route at Cochise - a very unique climb that I can't imagine ever replicating.