Skip to Content

Mystery of the Desert - 5.9

Average Rating = 3.83/5 Average Rating : 3.83 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (11)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock
Mixed
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.33/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.67/5

Description:

Starts on the far left side of the SW face. Pitch One : 5.7 I clipped the first three bolts on the face immediately to the right of Mystery Crack then followed the crack to a nice two bolt belay on a small, but comfortable ledge. Pitch Two: 5.8 On up the crack through a moderate roof protected by a bolt to another two bolt belay. Pitch Three: The Wedge. Squeeze through the slot to shift the belay or lead up over the block. Three bolts. Pitch Four: The Veg. The ramp to the left is protected by three bolts, but the original route goes up the vegetated ramp. Belay just past the top of the ramp in the shade of the last copse of trees. Pitch Five: 5.9 Layback the crack and belay at the end of the 30 left-trending traverse. Pitch Six: 5.9 Short pitch protected by three bolts. Belay off tree at top. Descend by the gully used for Sheepshead routes.

Submitted by: xclimber on 2003-07-30
Last Modified: 2011-03-09
Views: 1100
Route ID: 38670

11 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 11 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2012-11-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Mystery of the Desert

With Larry from Los Alamos. My second Cochise climb after Absinthe. Led all the pitches. I liked this route more than Absinthe. Combined the 4th-6th pitches (as laid out here) with a 70m and extending my pro, watch for rope drag though. Did the new 7th pitch. It is much more challenging than the rest of the route. Not sure how many folks have led this yet, including the FA (bolted on rap), but it is a bit harder than 5.9. Worth doing for sure.

Added: 2012-11-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: bkboyd on 2012-02-18 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars varied route

I placed gear from 0.3 to old-style 3.5 camalot, and maybe a stopper or two.

Added: 2012-03-01

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lucander on 2010-12-28 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Mystery of the Desert

Thought that no one really did this route, but there was a crowd at the base when we returned. First pitch is a lot of fun, and the crux fourth pitch is a blast - much more difficult than it looks.

Added: 2011-03-01

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: grippedclimer on 2006-12-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Ok route

This route is ok. Can be done in two long pitches I think if you run it out - we did it in 3. The roof is pretty cool, good gear the whole way.

Added: 2007-01-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: azrockclimber on 2007-01-03 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars nice

I usually hit the inevitable awaits you( .10a, .10b?) and then rap back down on the other side of "the wedge" and finish the climb. much cooler...

Added: 2007-01-03

... Read all 11 ascent notes