Starts on the far left side of the SW face. Pitch One : 5.7 I clipped the first three bolts on the face immediately to the right of Mystery Crack then followed the crack to a nice two bolt belay on a small, but comfortable ledge.
Pitch Two: 5.8 On up the crack through a moderate roof protected by a bolt to another two bolt belay.
Pitch Three: The Wedge. Squeeze through the slot to shift the belay or lead up over the block. Three bolts.
Pitch Four: The Veg. The ramp to the left is protected by three bolts, but the original route goes up the vegetated ramp. Belay just past the top of the ramp in the shade of the last copse of trees.
Pitch Five: 5.9 Layback the crack and belay at the end of the 30’ left-trending traverse.
Pitch Six: 5.9 Short pitch protected by three bolts. Belay off tree at top.
Descend by the gully used for Sheepshead routes.
Submitted by: xclimber on 2003-07-30
Last Modified: 2011-03-09
Route ID: 38670
With Larry from Los Alamos. My second Cochise climb after Absinthe. Led all the pitches. I liked this route more than Absinthe. Combined the 4th-6th pitches (as laid out here) with a 70m and extending my pro, watch for rope drag though. Did the new 7th pitch. It is much more challenging than the rest of the route. Not sure how many folks have led this yet, including the FA (bolted on rap), but it is a bit harder than 5.9. Worth doing for sure.