“The Out Of Towners” 5.10b/c. 500+ feet. Out of Towners Dome: Cochise Stronghole East. Leaders: Geir Hundal and Joaquin Fox: Three on a rope: I followed. Excellent company. As good companions can salvage a mediocre day at the crags, poor ones can just as well ruin an otherwise excellent one.
Two 60m ropes recommended. Allow about 45mins for the approach. There is a good trail. When you run into the base of the dome you can find the start by heading to the right up the ramp for a short distance. The start is right of a very large semi-detached boulder that marks the base of the ramp. The position is rather nicely shaded by some small trees; enjoy it while you can. Sunscreen is highly recommended as is sufficient water. The first few moves to the first bolt are on a fat flake-like feature with some fairly good underclings. The route is mostly bolted, but some mid-sized gear is essential for the crack immediately proceeding the second traverse on the second pitch. Some small wires might be useful as the crack seams down quite narrowly towards it’s upper terminus. This was nothing if not a fantastic day with beautiful weather. Although the exposure isn’t intimidating, this is one of the finest climbs I’ve ever had the good fortune to do. Three hard, rather sustained pitches. The first two are close to 200’, the third considerably shorter, albeit a bit harder (two or three roofs to surmount). It would’ve been easier to do the third had it been the first and if I hadn’t ripped the pads off of several finger tips trying to pull the first one! Beware the sharp quartz crystals... Bled copiously. I was hot to flash this one; I was pretty solid on the first two pitches, but weary by the third which required some more upper body strength as compared to the first two which are more delicate/balancy. I wound up falling three or four times and hanging rather shamelessly afterwards. I was forced to use some aid (A0) on the last roof as my tender tips would not permit their use despite the presence of some good jugs. I hung two slings from the bolt that protects the move and etriered up. Lots of crimpers on the first pitch and some excellent friction/smearing and an excellent jam crack on the second.
There is an optional 300 meter "W" Traverse on the second pitch: F.A. Geir Hundal (roped solo). Doing this changes the grade from a III to a VI. This digressive will not likely see a repeat ascent in the near future. Joaquin recommends eschewing anchoring at the belay at the top of the third pitch due to aesthetic considerations. Geir and Jerry recommend not taking any falls on that pitch due to health considerations. Jerry says, "Don't believe Hundal's Munter Hitch Parallel Strand Universe Anti-Kinking Theorem"; it has not proven replicable in field testing.
Rap the route. Three rappels will return you to your packs. You can fairly easily pendulum over to the second belay station which will be about 40’ to your right. After that it’s cake.
Witnessed by: Geir Hundal, Joaquin Fox