| Safety Rating
| Rock Quality
| Fun Factor
Gorgeous and bold in an incredible location. This climb is a
must do, at the level to most of Yosemite's best classics... I'm
looking forward to come back to this route as soon as I can.
First pitch is weird, but it can be protected very well with some
micro-cams and a large camalot. For the second pitch bring large
stuff, BD #3, #3.5 and #4 will do perfectly, we had only one of each
but two #4s and maybe a #5 can be highly appreciated. This is a very
physical pitch that will give you a good battle. The third pitch is
one of the best I've ever done... is just superb. Is not really too
hard, and just PERFECT!!! is a finger size crack, with a delicate
face traverse at the very end which give this pitch its grade. Is
very well protected, but be aware in that last move. If you fall
there and your last piece is too far to the right you may hit the
wall on the right side of the crack. Place a piece in the roof as
far to the left as you can before committing the traverse move. It
is just FUN as hell!!! Fourth has some delicate moves, you will
probably have to blind-place a cam on the little crack to the left,
the holds are far on the right. There is a good spot for a yellow
Metolius, with that on place, just go for it. It takes like three
moves to get to good holds and easy climbing. The rest is just lots
of fun. Bring full rack for this pitch. The last one is simple, easy
wide crack to a face climb. A 5.11 move protected by a new bolt,
then another bolt, and easy run-out up to the top.
Bolted anchors after 1st, 3rd, and top. There are anchors in the
middle of 4th pitch, right under the Friendly Flake, for descent.
You get there from the top, then a short rap to top of 3th and from
there you can make it to the ground with 60mt ropes.