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AbraCadaver - 5.11a

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

On the N face of the Rockefellers. P1: awkward pocketed groove/Ow 5.10. P2: strenuous OW to natural belay once the crack narrows down 10+. P3: more difficult than it looks- 10+ fingers/stems then out Left to anchors. P4: thin moves 5.10 to good cracks to the "friendly flake" belay. P5: lieback crack to face bolt 5.10 to easy runout finnish. alt finnish traverses L from bolt to easy crack.

Submitted by: hawthorne5630 on 2006-03-01
Views: 991
Route ID: 74726

Most Recent Photos (See all 11 photos)

4 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Jnclk on 2010-10-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars a perfect line

The "5.9" OW is harder than the 11- crux!


Added: 2010-11-22

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 2009-02-18 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars a great memory

I'd like to add that the fourth pitch is the sleeper. About 10b R. Make an easy runout to the crack and place a solid cam. Reach high and place a good RP. Make a few stiff moves, and reach left to blindly place a red alien. Now head up and right, and put your faith in god.
This route is not too hard, but the sustained and varied nature make it a real classic.

Added: 2009-02-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating R
Onsight Onsight ascent by: canmoron on 2008-02-25 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Stellar!

This is an incredible route that seems to get very little traffic. Pitch 2 may be the reason for that -it's an SOB OW! We found no 5.11 on this route - the 3rd pitch is more like .10d. All cruxes are well protected except for a couple body lengths of difficult (5.10) climbing on P4 where you transition from crack to face. The crux on P5 is height dependent and will be harder than 510 if you are less than 510 ;-)

Added: 2008-02-25

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: luiscis on 2006-11-25 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Amazing Climb!!!!

Gorgeous and bold in an incredible location. This climb is a
must do, at the level to most of Yosemite's best classics... I'm
looking forward to come back to this route as soon as I can.

First pitch is weird, but it can be protected very well with some
micro-cams and a large camalot. For the second pitch bring large
stuff, BD #3, #3.5 and #4 will do perfectly, we had only one of each
but two #4s and maybe a #5 can be highly appreciated. This is a very
physical pitch that will give you a good battle. The third pitch is
one of the best I've ever done... is just superb. Is not really too
hard, and just PERFECT!!! is a finger size crack, with a delicate
face traverse at the very end which give this pitch its grade. Is
very well protected, but be aware in that last move. If you fall
there and your last piece is too far to the right you may hit the
wall on the right side of the crack. Place a piece in the roof as
far to the left as you can before committing the traverse move. It
is just FUN as hell!!! Fourth has some delicate moves, you will
probably have to blind-place a cam on the little crack to the left,
the holds are far on the right. There is a good spot for a yellow
Metolius, with that on place, just go for it. It takes like three
moves to get to good holds and easy climbing. The rest is just lots
of fun. Bring full rack for this pitch. The last one is simple, easy
wide crack to a face climb. A 5.11 move protected by a new bolt,
then another bolt, and easy run-out up to the top.

Bolted anchors after 1st, 3rd, and top. There are anchors in the
middle of 4th pitch, right under the Friendly Flake, for descent.
You get there from the top, then a short rap to top of 3th and from
there you can make it to the ground with 60mt ropes.

Enjoy!!!

Added: 2006-11-26