Average Rating : 0.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (0)
Mostly bolts. A few cams optional.
Climbed this, with the Man, Scott Ayers, directly left (Ides of Middlemarch) Pitch 1 Start in a small hollow about 50 ft left of this route and follow an obvious line of bolts up a short overhang 15 ft off the ground. Continue on line of bolts tending rightward. 10+ . Pitch 2. Continue straight up past bolts on a vertical face with involved interesting climbing with many hard moves and marginal stances. The last part of the face is most difficult. Follow a few bolts to an easy vegitated seam going up and right. Belay is at the top. 11 B/C Pitch 3. Make hard insecure moves to the first and second bolts risking post holing your partner. Follow the face above using dynamic stemming. Above, follow lower angle climbing with a few bolts and gear placements to belay. 11 B/C. Pitch 4. Continue up easier ground with a few bolts to a harder move at the top. Belay a bit below ledge on two bolts. 5.9 Pitch 5 Move belay up and right 50 ft to another belay. Follow difficult corner/seam up sharp loose rock to a belay (I did this last year as a finish to Stampeed) 11+. Pitch 6 Follow unpleasant grainy features to top on natural gear. 5.7
With the exception of the last pitch, I thought this route was as good as Stampeed. My partner thought pitch 2 was hardest, I thought pitch 3 was.
Off to the left
Submitted by: stevecurtis on 2011-01-19
Route ID: 107781