Begin in the gully on the right side of the dome. The first pitch has a hard move off the ground, then climbs a tenuous slick slab past many, many closely spaced bolts to a belay. The second pitch is the crux; the third and fourth super 5.9 and runout 5.6. Once you hit the ledge after the fifth, walk 150 feet or so left to a bolt station. Climb steep rock off the ledge to a hard move on the face. Careful of the last pitch. It's a solid 5.10 3 bolt section that has sent more than one person onto the ledge below with an inattentive belayer. A superb route.
With double ropes you can rap straight down a new route to climber's right. When on top, look for the new anchor on the right and a little below. Double ropes!
Submitted by: billiebob on 2004-07-15
Last Modified: 2011-01-27
Route ID: 25376
One of the best routes of this type I've done. Not an endurance route--mostly short hard cruxes--I fell at the first. Beautiful rock, varied pitches, runouts on easier ground-- almost but not quite a sport route. I slung one chickenhead for gear when I got off route--otherwise only bolts. We did the last direct pitch with poor rock and tough climbing--12A?
The third pitch also has some tenuous moves...oh wait that is only if it is 45 degrees and 25 mph winds in December and your fingers are numb!!! The last pitch has a of number of bolts lines sprawled out above the anchors...Chose wisely...I recommend the center line, slick face up over the knob...climb into the gully and stay left through some sparsly bolted and not protectable seams to an anchor in a dish. Unrope and scramble the last 100 feet (passing the anchor station to your left)