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Stampede - 5.11a

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (7)
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Rock (Sport)
PG13
5
bolts
900
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.67/5

Description:

Begin in the gully on the right side of the dome. The first pitch has a hard move off the ground, then climbs a tenuous slick slab past many, many closely spaced bolts to a belay. The second pitch is the crux; the third and fourth super 5.9 and runout 5.6. Once you hit the ledge after the fifth, walk 150 feet or so left to a bolt station. Climb steep rock off the ledge to a hard move on the face. Careful of the last pitch. It's a solid 5.10 3 bolt section that has sent more than one person onto the ledge below with an inattentive belayer. A superb route.

Descent Options:

With double ropes you can rap straight down a new route to climber's right. When on top, look for the new anchor on the right and a little below. Double ropes!

Submitted by: billiebob on 2004-07-15
Last Modified: 2011-01-27
Views: 780
Route ID: 25376

7 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 7 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: stevecurtis on 2010-03-11 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Another fantastic route and total sandbag

One of the best routes of this type I've done. Not an endurance route--mostly short hard cruxes--I fell at the first. Beautiful rock, varied pitches, runouts on easier ground-- almost but not quite a sport route. I slung one chickenhead for gear when I got off route--otherwise only bolts. We did the last direct pitch with poor rock and tough climbing--12A?

Added: 2010-04-01

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: canmoron on 2008-02-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Yee haw!

One of the finest routes I've climbed at the Stronghold. Pitches go at .11a, .11a, .10d, .9/10a, .10b, .10d, .10c
Bring yer dancin' shoes! 14 QD's.

Added: 2008-02-23

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: laurelja on 2007-12-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars brrrrr...yippee anyways

The third pitch also has some tenuous moves...oh wait that is only if it is 45 degrees and 25 mph winds in December and your fingers are numb!!!
The last pitch has a of number of bolts lines sprawled out above the anchors...Chose wisely...I recommend the center line, slick face up over the knob...climb into the gully and stay left through some sparsly bolted and not protectable seams to an anchor in a dish. Unrope and scramble the last 100 feet (passing the anchor station to your left)

Added: 2007-12-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: azrockclimber on 2004-01-03 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars whew...

this was a toughy for me. Sticking to that rock through the crux was crazy. I felt like spiderman clinging to nothing...
haha

Added: 2007-01-03

Ratings
  Difficulty
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: ldsclimber on 2004-01-04 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

slabby!!!!

Witnessed by: fletcher
Added: 2004-01-04

... Read all 7 ascent notes