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Routes : North America : United States : Arizona : Southern : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead : Unknown climb right of Stampede

Unknown climb right of Stampede - 5.10a

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock (Trad)
Standard rack, some slings for chicken heads. ~50% of the route is bolted. All anchors are bolted.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5


This climb has a wide variety of climbing, including chimney, crack, face, and slab, making it interesting and challenging at the grade. ĽA topo for this is available at Pitch 1 (50 feet, 5.8) -- climb up past two bolts and a few traditional placements to a two bolt anchor. Pitch 2 (120 feet, 5.10a) -- make a hard move to the right, clipping a bolt. Then climb up past one more bolt to a nice crack. Continue up the crack, staying to your left at a bulge, where the crack widens to a short chimney. At the top of the chimney bear right and climb up past a few more bolts to the anchor. Pitch 3 (100 feet, 5.9) -- climb up on a slightly run-out, but easy terrain to a series of bolts. Continue along the bolts until the climb bears left to a sloping ledge with a two bolt anchor. Pitch 4 (140 feet, hard 5.9) -- climb up and right past bolts and interesting face climbing. After about 5 bolts, the climbing eases off a bit to lower angle climbing. Pass over a diagonal crack which takes some gear and continue up to a nice ledge with a two bolt anchor and rap rings. Note that this anchor is one of the rappel stations for the descent. Pitch 5 (100 feet, 5.9) -- climb up past two bolts and into a chimney. The chimney narrows to offwidth as you climb higher and face holds appear on your left. Move on to the face and continue up to a two bolt anchor with rap rings. Location Approach: while walking up the hill toward Sheepshead, keep an eye out for a cairn marking a trail heading to the right. After a minute, the trail deposits you into a wash which heads up toward the right side of Sheepshead. Continue up the wash until you are between Sheepshead and Carnivore Pinnacle (the next formation to the right). You will see the bolts for the beginning of Stampede on your left. Continue up 50 feet or so to a large dead tree. The route starts in a gully to the left of this tree.

Descent Options:

Descent: -From the end of pitch 5, rappel 100' to the anchor for pitch 4. -From the pitch 4 anchor, rappel straight down about 80' to an anchor on your right. -Rappel from this anchor 50' to a large ledge with vegetation. -Scramble down and climbe

Submitted by: gblauer on 2012-12-04
Views: 1287
Route ID: 113097

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1 Ascent Recorded

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  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: gblauer on 2012-12-04 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Not so great when a Gunks climber goes to Cochise

Slab? Offwidth? Chimney? Wow, nothing like the gunks. I worked all new techniques on this climb. Felt very sandbagged to me. Perhaps it was my lack of skill on 10a slab or Chimney climbing. Lots of fun, a pretty long hike in, lots of exposed climbing on pristine granite.

Added: 2012-12-04