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The Wasteland - 5.8

Average Rating = 4.90/5 Average Rating : 4.90 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (22)
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Rock
Small to medium nuts, small to medium-ish cams (up to #2 or #3), lots of slings.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.33/5
  Rock Quality 4.83/5
  Scenery 4.67/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

6 pitches of mostly easy climbing on good rock. Said to be the best 5.8 in the state. P1- Low angle, trends right to a ledge. P2- Follow the right-leaning diagonal crack to a ledge just right of a short chimney. P3- Scoot up the short (~30') chimney (don't go too deep into it!) and then step out right to a face full of chickenheads- big'uns! This is the best pitch, in Climbsomething's opinion :D P4- Climb toward the big roof, then go right along the base of the roof's skirt to a small roof. Climb over the small roof, then head back left to chickenhead belay over the big roof. P5- 50' traverse straight left (the sketch factor is alleviated by the biggy holds), surmount a bulge and then head up face to a huge ledge a mere 30' from the summit. P6- Short, slabby finish with a few technical moves to an easy scramble to the summit. Can do this staight up or trend left at the start. Either way works ;)

Submitted by: climbsomething on 2002-08-01
Views: 1565
Route ID: 21337

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22 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: sun2stone on 2014-02-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars adventure

yes more adventure than Euphoria, 70m combined 1,2 but also did start variation to teenagewasteland .

Added: 2014-03-08

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: kubok13 on 2013-02-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars none

cold, windy, intermittent snow

Added: 2013-02-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
Red Point Red Point ascent by: aerili on 2010-12-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars If you have to do one 5.8 route in Cochise

do this one. Yes, even over Ewephoria. So much more adventurous!

Climbed with Laine and Maryann. Led evens this time.

Although many give this route a 'G' safety, it can be pretty spicy, even closer to R, but has a more PG-13 feel for some reason.

Added: 2011-01-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: SDS on 2010-09-11 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Waspland

Had just place 3 pieces in the crack to the left on the ledge at the top of the first pitch when the first yellow jackets emerged from the crack my top piece was in, a nice #10 stopper. Long story short...I killed 6 including the 4 that stung me before my partner could reach the tree above me. I joined him and they followed us, we bailed (2 raps single rope) and they followed us down. Great looking route. We'll try again next month.

Added: 2010-09-16

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: climbaddic on 2008-04-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Cool route with bunch of chicken heads.

It is nice little route with bunch of chicken heads. I think route is much easier than typical Cochise route, but that may just be me. I tend to do better on routes with big holds with overhung vs slab.

You can easily do this route in 5 pitches. You just need to extend your protection more.

P1 and P2: Kind of silly and boring actually. Hard to protect on places without being little creative.

P3: Chimney into awesome flakes. Lots of chicken heads. Never seen so many chicken heads in my life! Awesome pitch by the way. Climb long as possible, so that you can run P5 & P6 together.

P4: Where is the overhung roof? It wasn't a roof. It is slightly more vertical than prior pitches :) After a "roof", traverse left as possible, this will set you up to link P5 and P6 together.

P5-p6: Summit! More awesome flake into couple moves of slabby moves.

Gears: Bring bunch of slings (I brought around 16 slings). Set of stoppers, and I brought 10 cams from 0.4 to 3.

Decent: Single 60 meter rope will do. According to mountainproject, it was suppose to be 6 raps. However, someone probably has cut one rap station, making everyone to downclimb a large section. After first rap, just follow the cairn down to the base. You will end up right at the base.


Added: 2008-04-28

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