Routes : North America : United States : Arizona : Southern : Cochise Stronghold : Wasteland Dome : The Wasteland
PreviousThe Wasteland - 5.8
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Rock
Small to medium nuts, small to medium-ish cams (up to #2 or #3), lots of slings.
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Description:
6 pitches of mostly easy climbing on good rock. Said to be the best 5.8 in the state. P1- Low angle, trends right to a ledge. P2- Follow the right-leaning diagonal crack to a ledge just right of a short chimney. P3- Scoot up the short (~30') chimney (don't go too deep into it!) and then step out right to a face full of chickenheads- big'uns! This is the best pitch, in Climbsomething's opinion :D P4- Climb toward the big roof, then go right along the base of the roof's skirt to a small roof. Climb over the small roof, then head back left to chickenhead belay over the big roof. P5- 50' traverse straight left (the sketch factor is alleviated by the biggy holds), surmount a bulge and then head up face to a huge ledge a mere 30' from the summit. P6- Short, slabby finish with a few technical moves to an easy scramble to the summit. Can do this staight up or trend left at the start. Either way works ;)
Submitted by: climbsomething on 2002-08-01
Views: 466
Route ID: 21337
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18 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 18 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Cool route with bunch of chicken heads.
It is nice little route with bunch of chicken heads. I think route is much easier than typical Cochise route, but that may just be me. I tend to do better on routes with big holds with overhung vs slab.
You can easily do this route in 5 pitches. You just need to extend your protection more.
P1 and P2: Kind of silly and boring actually. Hard to protect on places without being little creative.
P3: Chimney into awesome flakes. Lots of chicken heads. Never seen so many chicken heads in my life! Awesome pitch by the way. Climb long as possible, so that you can run P5 & P6 together.
P4: Where is the overhung roof? It wasn't a roof. It is slightly more vertical than prior pitches :) After a "roof", traverse left as possible, this will set you up to link P5 and P6 together.
P5-p6: Summit! More awesome flake into couple moves of slabby moves.
Gears: Bring bunch of slings (I brought around 16 slings). Set of stoppers, and I brought 10 cams from 0.4 to 3.
Decent: Single 60 meter rope will do. According to mountainproject, it was suppose to be 6 raps. However, someone probably has cut one rap station, making everyone to downclimb a large section. After first rap, just follow the cairn down to the base. You will end up right at the base.
You can easily do this route in 5 pitches. You just need to extend your protection more.
P1 and P2: Kind of silly and boring actually. Hard to protect on places without being little creative.
P3: Chimney into awesome flakes. Lots of chicken heads. Never seen so many chicken heads in my life! Awesome pitch by the way. Climb long as possible, so that you can run P5 & P6 together.
P4: Where is the overhung roof? It wasn't a roof. It is slightly more vertical than prior pitches :) After a "roof", traverse left as possible, this will set you up to link P5 and P6 together.
P5-p6: Summit! More awesome flake into couple moves of slabby moves.
Gears: Bring bunch of slings (I brought around 16 slings). Set of stoppers, and I brought 10 cams from 0.4 to 3.
Decent: Single 60 meter rope will do. According to mountainproject, it was suppose to be 6 raps. However, someone probably has cut one rap station, making everyone to downclimb a large section. After first rap, just follow the cairn down to the base. You will end up right at the base.
Added: 2008-04-28
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
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Got lost on p1: I ended up in sketchy dihedral (I think to the right of actual line?) with
loose rock and lousy pro. Fortunately the rest of the route was really mellow with great chickenheads on pitches 3,4,5. Super fun and mostly mid-5th class climbing.
loose rock and lousy pro. Fortunately the rest of the route was really mellow with great chickenheads on pitches 3,4,5. Super fun and mostly mid-5th class climbing.
Added: 2008-04-07
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
None
None
Added: 2008-03-10
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
epic 5.8
great climb, although the last pitch takes some route finding skills - don't try to rap off this one in the dark (unless you are wise enough to carry a headlamp!)
Added: 2008-02-24
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
A 'Waste' of a birthday? I think not!
Climbed this one day before my 30th--in celebration! A classic in honor of a classic, right?! 5.8 rating is solid; do not compare the rating to another Cochise 5.8 classic, Moby Dick. Much harder, more sustained, trickier moves, and requires more nerve in general on this one. Me: p1, p3, p5. Joe: all the rest! Gave it a safety rating of PG13 because p1 is runout (I had 50 feet at one point) due to lack of gear placements, and the traverses and chickenheads make one want to protect as infrequently as possible due to rope drag. Also, lead falls on many sections would probably be undesirable.
Added: 2007-03-14
