Routes : North America : United States : Arizona : Southern : Cochise Stronghold : Westworld Dome : WarPaint
WarPaint - 5.10c
|
Rock
PG13
5
12-14 quickdraws; cams #2-4 for one short, wide crack section; all anchors are bolted
|
|
||||||||||||||
Description:
The mega-classic route of West Cochise Stronghold. Considered a sport route by some, but truly suited more to the classic trad climber's abilities as the entire route is steep sustained friction slab with few to no holds most of the way. This requires commitment on the majority of moves. Climbers with no footwork technique should avoid this route. Edging shoes are not helpful here. New and retro-fitted bolts as of 2005. Westworld Dome is located across the ravine from Whale Dome; follow a faint trail that goes into the woods off the left side of the road BEFORE the main trail starts at the end of the turnaround. This will take you directly into the dry wash/bouldery ravine that is the trail to Westworld and Whale Domes. Cairns are few and far between in the wash, but trail wanders into and out of the wash for about 20-30 minutes with some boulder hopping required. As Whale Dome approaches on your left, look to the right and you will see Westworld rising up slightly closer in distance. It is not too difficult to then locate the area where the trail deviates out of the wash up the hillside to the bottom of Westworld. Eventually you will come to a point where the trail appears to stop and split left and right; take the right traversing fork. Within 50-100 ft you will see a tree with very red bark (Madrone) growing next to the wall--WarPaint starts directly left of this tree on the slab. Most of the route is well protected, although a few very thin, cruxy areas did not seem so well protected to me, requiring an extra dicey, uncomfortable move to reach the clipping stance (I am a 5'6" climber). Bolt placement often seems suited mainly for tall climbers; otherwise, I would call certain moves on this route PG13 at times. P1: 10c, 160 ft. Crux of the route, no warm up allowed! Exceptionally thin, requiring mainly pure friction footwork with nothing to hold whatsoever on most of the pitch. Certain sections become fairly steep and nearly vertical as well; luckily, this means lead falls on this type of "slab" are usually airborne and non-injury inducing! P2: 5.8, ~40 ft. From the P1 anchors on the top of the large ledge, walk over to where the short, vertical crack starts to belay for P2. Confident, strong trad climbers may only need one #3 to protect here; less seasoned leaders may like having a #4 as well for the wider section up higher. Vertical but with secure left knee jams the whole way up and good right foot stemming plus fist jams and face holds for hands. P3: 10a/b, ~170 ft. The only real runout occurs on this pitch right after first 2 bolts. A lower angle slab runs out about 30-40 ft to the third bolt along a weakness of shallow, oval pockets in the face. You probably COULD place a couple crappy nuts or small cams along the way, but why bother fiddling with gear placements that are psychological at best? Keep your head cool and just keep climbing, it's seriously the easy part of the pitch. Past the 4th bolt the route becomes thin, sustained, and thought-provoking again with some rather steep sections, but at least there are few more dime edges here and there to utilize than on P1. Uncomfortable belay at the top. P4: 10c, ~100-120 ft. Nearly as hard as P1 with many moves that are similarly dicey, thin, and holdless. At one point near the bottom of the pitch, the route starts to ramp up steeply against a wall and comes to a corner; at this point it becomes dead vertical and actually has a large flake on the lip of the wall to the right off which bomber hands are to be had--however, unless you are rather tall this could still be a scary and difficult move. I seconded the pitch and had to throw for the flake, barely getting only my right hand on it when my feet peeled off the ramp completely. Smear up the wall with your feet in a boulder move over the top. Two more mentally committing, footwork-intense sections ensue before the belay. P5: 60 ft. Move to the first bolt is 10a; move to the second bolt is 10cish, esp. if you are of medium or shorter height. Then 10aish climbing for 20-30 ft, after which the pitch majorly eases off to 5.7 or under. Winds can be very strong and unrelenting on the last 3 pitches, so if climbing in the winter, bring warmer layers/shells accordingly to put on.Descent Options:
Four double rope raps. Once you have rapped to the start of P3, you need only make one more rap straight down the face to the ground (instead of two more back over the route). This should put you slightly up and left of the start of WarPaint.
Submitted by: aerili on 2002-08-09
Last Modified: 2007-01-03
Views: 359
Route ID: 16065
Most Recent Photos
|
|
|
|
9 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 9 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Warpaint
A masterpiece for Fazio and Kerry, I'd like to know which bolts they added after the first ascent. The best route I did during a two week stay at Cochise, sustained climbing on tips and toes. I don't know how to put letter grades on any pitch, they all felt like legit 5.10 to me though. Climbed with Ursasaur and led every one of these exciting pitches. I'm calling this a trad line because it's hard to imagine working this like a sport route.
Added: 2009-01-19
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
free man
first big climb as a free man! (well, out of the Marines-style free:) started on the wrong climb and flailed. got on the right one and soared!! such a sweet view! sweet smelling air!
Added: 2008-09-17
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Finally
Beanfest 07 presented great opportunity to go get er done. Wish there were less bolts and more crack....
Added: 2007-04-29
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Hang Dog ascent by:
There were no holds, so we had to use skill
Stellar bolted multi-pitch with a little crack thrown in! Trad climbers should do this one! Check my updated route info for full beta. I finally blew holes in my Mythos on this route...after 3 1/2 years of climbing regularly in them. (What can I say, I am light on my feet???)
Added: 2007-01-08
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
Flash ascent by:
Ascent Note
Oh, my god... A real hoot! I've dont this one three times now. Sometimes it's pretty, but sometimes it ain't. =:o)
Witnessed by: Geir Hundal, Chawn Harlow
Added: 2003-05-03
Added: 2003-05-03
