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South Face - 5.7

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Rock
Slings for chicken-heads, stoppers, tri-cams, small to medium cams, i.e. Aliens
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty (Not Rated)
  Safety Rating (Not Rated)
  Exposure (Not Rated)
  Rock Quality (Not Rated)
  Scenery (Not Rated)
  Fun Factor (Not Rated)

Description:

Start just below the red madrone tree in the first side gully in the Moby Dick descent gully - same as approach to Dem Bones, but before that 100' or so). This route gets an "R" in the guidebook, but if you fall (in some places) you will likely die. There are some VERY long runouts.

Submitted by: xclimber on 2005-03-20
Views: 514
Route ID: 43915

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: organika on 2005-12-18 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

very,very,run-out....gotta keep a cool head.....more like 5.7X....awsome route..the second pitch is the most nerve racking.

Added: 2005-12-18

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: xclimber on 2003-11-02 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Bring yer head... The cruxes are mostly psychological barriers.

Witnessed by: Jeff Fassett
Added: 2003-11-02

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: hexitup on 2003-11-01 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

I think I started to far up the Moby Dick gully, as I was only 30 feet or so from the start of Moby Dick. Agreed, it is very runout. I encountered runouts of 70' or more on multiple pitches, mostly in the harder areas of slabby 5.7 climbing(as the chickenheads disappear, difficult increases and pro decreases). Rumor has it that bolts are going to be added to this climb sometime between Nov.'03 and Feb.'04. Sould make it even more fun.

Added: 2003-11-01