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crater genetics - 5.11b A0

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blue alien to # 4 camalot. a few nuts including RPs
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Start about 20 ft. left of elephantiasis. Spy bolt about 40 ft up wall. Head toward this bolt weaving left and right as necessary for easiest line. Note that Kerry's descriptions are accurate with a few exceptions. First exception is that bolt counts are not always accurate, and there are several bolts that are clipable, but best left unclipped. Pitch 1. Follow Kerry's description to first belay. 10A, 5.9 R Pitch 2. 2 or 3 bolts head to a rightward facing corner crack. Another bolt is further left and over the top of a small roof. Do not clip this bolt, but use pro in the crack to head right and then up. At the end of the crack, make a few bold moves, place marginal gear, and find a hidden bolt when things look desperate. climb above to belay. 10B, 5.9 R Pitch 3 Crux is right off belay, with some danger of hitting a ledge. I wasn't able to do the move, and found the sequence to be 11B/A0. Several bolts later there is another very tenuous slab section that is not aid-able--call it 11A. Above another bolt or two, follow a 20 ft arching left facing low angle corner/hand crack to a dirty grove full of rodent shit, and another bolt. Above this bolt there is marginal gear and a long runout with a small nut that is probably worthless; ledge fall potential. I found this to be the psychological crux.--10 B R. Pitch 4 Climb odd features to a bolt about 25 ft away--harder than it appears. Past this bolt is a new one, with a really poor hidden bolt. Pull blocky features into right angling corner/hand crack, that pinches down very small (fixed nut), and then opens into an offwidth. Attempt not to inhale all the raptor fecal material and fur balls. Pull a few odd layback moves out of the corner and clip the over the top. The first bolt is badly misplaced. A second bolt, 4 ft away has better placement and is just a few feet from the next belay. 11B due to the sustained nature of the crack after the fixed nut. Pitch 5. Until now, all the belays have had two button heads, and a good 3/8 inch bolt. This belay has only two button heads. However, the next bolt is clip able from the belay, and three more bolts follow closely. Pull hard slab moves past these bolts. However, do not clip the last bolt--doing this adds 11B to nowhere moves. Instead, at the second to last bolt head left to the OW and layback the sucker. Yes, the brown stuff your feet and hands are in is bat feces. It covers this area and adds a measure of desperation to oherwise excellent rock. At the end of this crack use hand jams and difficult slab moves to climb out of the crack, clip a few bolts and head into the chimney. At the base of the chimney, one is confronted with a choice. clip the bolt on the outside, and climb 20 ft of hard arete/face (5.11) to the bolt. The wall overhangs below for about 50 ft, so your fall potential is probably save. Or, grovel into the chimney and move your pro upward in an ungraceful and uncomfortable slot. (10A) I chose the latter option, and then TRed the arete. The dilemma is similar to the ninth pitch of "crystal vision" in the Black. I didn't have a choice on crystal vision. I belayed in a comfortable corner a few feet up and left of the anchors. Past this the climbing looked much easier. We rappelled. This is an OK climb. However, my partner and I thought of a new name AKA "Fecal Towers." We also knocked off a few large chunks.

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Rappel route from top of fifth. First two raps single rope. Last three about 140 ft each.

Submitted by: stevecurtis on 2011-02-22
Views: 333
Route ID: 107950