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Wily Javelina - 5.9

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
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bolts and a few small to medium nuts
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


Genius routefinding involved when this climb was put up. If you can handle the first pitch of this route, you'll have a blast on the rest. The first four pitches feature 5.9 sections. The bolts aren't hard to see. Climb where it's clean and fun and you'll find them. Bring two ropes to rap! Do other routes if you like this one, they get better!

Submitted by: freezerfrost on 2004-01-02
Views: 821
Route ID: 21927

4 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating R
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: luiscis on 2008-02-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great Route in an incredible location

This place is awesome!!!

Yeah, the rock may be a bit flaky and bolts are far apart... but generally is not a problem if you are a comfortable 5.9 climber. It is really a great line.

There are bolted anchors on every pitch and most bolts in the route are new. Notice: don't pull too hard out on the flakes, they usually expand and you may break them if you pull in the wrong direction... but if you play attention (and you want to play attention with this kind of run outs!), they are perfectly fine.

The first pitch is kind of the hardest one for your head, and maybe the most sustained one. If you survive this one, the rest will feel more smooth, with the exception of a few crux moves here and there.
I did not find the line too hard to follow; bolts are indeed a bit hard to find sometimes but once you see one, the next one is usually in sight, and the line turns out clear. The last pitch is not obvious though. It could be done in many different ways. Just find the easiest way up and don't expect to place any gear other than slinging some chicken-heads.

From the top, there is a rap line (5 raps) down over Table for Two that is save and goes straight down.

Added: 2008-02-11

Red Point Red Point ascent by: rradjc on 2005-02-06 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

This was a fun route in a very isolated and quiet area. My partner and I had a hard time finding the bolts after the first two pitches, but we made it. We ended up taking the variation with goes straight up about midway along the 4th pitch. Look for a bolt way up there instead of traversing right to the tree for 'Table for Two'. The fifth pitch has 3 bolts over the 130ft, but it's easy terrain... Wonderful line on great rock.

Added: 2005-02-06

Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: charlieliu on 2005-01-29 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

seconded, so runouts weren't much skin off my back...beautiful route

Witnessed by: Randy, Gerd
Added: 2005-01-29

Red Point Red Point ascent by: freezerfrost on 2003-12-04 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

wtf? "Jeff Mayhew is a genius"? My homeboy wasn't involved with the FA of wily javelina.

Added: 2003-12-04