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Routes : North America : United States : Arizona : Southern : Mt. Lemmon : Rappel Rock : Bender Axen To Black Quacker

Bender Axen To Black Quacker - 5.8

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (12)
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Rock
Small to medium cams, set of nuts and plenty of slings for chicken heads.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.33/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.67/5
  Fun Factor 4.67/5

Description:

The Bender-Axen pitch starts about 20 feet right of the toe of the buttress where the bolted Chiboni is located. The start is vertical with thin smear moves to the crack about 15 ft; get a spot from your partner. Yellow alien is a bomber first piece. Enjoy the great crack climbing up to large pine tree for the first belay ledge. Crux move on the second pitch of Black Quacker turning the boulder roof... fun stuff. Then great climbing on chicken heads to the top. Decent walk off, scramble the back side on the left.

Submitted by: monkmiller510 on 2004-11-17
Views: 1157
Route ID: 958

12 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Solo Solo ascent by: dan4geng on 2008-11-08 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars .

onsight. good times

Added: 2008-11-08

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: laurelja on 2008-09-07 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars slabby

used my new found tuolemne skillz to lead the first pitch

Added: 2008-09-08

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating X
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: briarpatch on 2007-09-24 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars cool

free-soloed this today in beautiful conditions on the mountain, probably 70deg and no clouds. Very nice climbing. Much of the lower sections reminded me of the Valley.

Added: 2007-09-24

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: braxtron on 2006-02-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars None

Slabby crux @ start, incredible climbing for next 30+ meters, as well as the second pitch on BQ. Second belay has one bolt on a vertical face, with a vertical crack below (clove hitch = very handy). Typical of Mt. Lemmon climbs, it's too short.

Added: 2006-12-02

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: sharp_end_soul on 2005-10-08 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

After skidding down the first 10 ft. of slab I stuck the rest of the route. We were a party of three. Wind, then hail, them rain precipitated simul-climbing the last two pitches. What a great introduction to Arizona climbing!

Added: 2005-10-08

... Read all 12 ascent notes