Routes : North America : United States : Arkansas : Buffalo National River : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : Far East : FIRST TIME UP
FIRST TIME UP - 5.8
Average Rating : 4.33 out of 5Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (7)
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Rock
TRAD OR ANCHORS FROM GRACIES EIGHT TO THE RIGHT
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Description:
CLASSIC FLAKE 5.8+
Submitted by: lukestrickert on 2006-01-28
Views: 1528
Route ID: 73682
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7 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 7 ascent notes
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Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
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Onsight ascent by: asellers98 on 2012-05-25
(View Climbing Log)
simulated lead
Set this one up as a top rope from Gracies 8, and someone in the group wanted to do a simulated lead on it. He got to his second piece and was spent. So I finished his simulated lead. The climb itself is easy, but when you have to pause to place gear, this flaring crack was a pain to protect. Based on the protection trouble I would rate this PG13. I used a C4 #6 in the middle corner and had to run out the crux due to it being pumpy. If you get into trouble, there is a spot on the crux you can sling your rope as you place gear right before the wide stuff (it is the bomber hold with an L shape). Had I not been on top rope, I could have taken a bad fall though. On passing the second protection cam, I kicked it loose, and at the crux, I had to take due to exhaustion fiddling with protection. A few more goes on this route and I would have it on lead.
Added: 2012-05-30
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.8 |
Safety Rating | G |
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Flash ascent by: willwill on 2010-10-10
(View Climbing Log)
none
nonw
Added: 2010-10-11
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.8 |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
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Onsight ascent by: critterdude542 on 2010-01-17
(View Climbing Log)
first time up
tons of fun liebacking in the flake. doubles in 3 and 4 for sure.
Added: 2010-01-17
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.8 |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
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Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Hang Dog ascent by: klong on 2009-11-08
(View Climbing Log)
Nice climb
Almost an onsight, Darn.
Takes bigger gear, I could have used one more #4.5. I used a variety of techniques from jamming to lie back and stemming.
Takes bigger gear, I could have used one more #4.5. I used a variety of techniques from jamming to lie back and stemming.
Added: 2009-11-09
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Difficulty | |
Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by: zeubanks on 2008-11-23
(View Climbing Log)
First Time Up
Beautiful flake.
Added: 2008-12-11