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FIRST TIME UP - 5.8

Average Rating = 4.33/5 Average Rating : 4.33 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (7)
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Rock
TRAD OR ANCHORS FROM GRACIES EIGHT TO THE RIGHT
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.20/5
  Scenery 3.75/5
  Fun Factor 4.40/5

Description:

CLASSIC FLAKE 5.8+

Submitted by: lukestrickert on 2006-01-28
Views: 878
Route ID: 73682

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7 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 7 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: asellers98 on 2012-05-25 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars simulated lead

Set this one up as a top rope from Gracies 8, and someone in the group wanted to do a simulated lead on it. He got to his second piece and was spent. So I finished his simulated lead. The climb itself is easy, but when you have to pause to place gear, this flaring crack was a pain to protect. Based on the protection trouble I would rate this PG13. I used a C4 #6 in the middle corner and had to run out the crux due to it being pumpy. If you get into trouble, there is a spot on the crux you can sling your rope as you place gear right before the wide stuff (it is the bomber hold with an L shape). Had I not been on top rope, I could have taken a bad fall though. On passing the second protection cam, I kicked it loose, and at the crux, I had to take due to exhaustion fiddling with protection. A few more goes on this route and I would have it on lead.

Added: 2012-05-30

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: willwill on 2010-10-10 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars none

nonw

Added: 2010-10-11

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: critterdude542 on 2010-01-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars first time up

tons of fun liebacking in the flake. doubles in 3 and 4 for sure.

Added: 2010-01-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: klong on 2009-11-08 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Nice climb

Almost an onsight, Darn.
Takes bigger gear, I could have used one more #4.5. I used a variety of techniques from jamming to lie back and stemming.

Added: 2009-11-09

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: zeubanks on 2008-11-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars First Time Up

Beautiful flake.

Added: 2008-12-11

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