This is the route directly left of love slave (abbreviated LOLS: left of love slave) it goes out the small overhang through the pocketed face and ends in jugs
if you have any more info on the route, add it
Submitted by: critterdude542 on 2010-05-04
Last Modified: 2010-05-05
Route ID: 104702
I talked to cole fennel about this one. He said it's called Sienna Says (I think). He gave an 11a grade if you hand jam, and 11d if you dyno. I sent this using the pockets, and to me that felt like 11c. I also did it doing the dyno and thought 11d sounded right for that beta. I'm not a crack climber so I couldn't even get a hand jam to work to try that method.
This was a fun route with one awkward move. I didnt use pockets because there is a 2 finger crimp in the crack. I used that, a heel hook and a right side pull/gaston to get up. will try it again, but I thought it was harder than an 11b. I did love slave right before it and thought that was about the same difficulty