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Festering Crabs - 5.7

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (6)
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Rock (Trad)
G
Small and medium trad gear.
90
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.67/5
  Rock Quality 3.33/5
  Scenery 4.33/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

Tallest climb in the area. 90-95' and 20' to the right of Flaming Piss. Follow the crack 20' to a large ledge and continue up staying right. There is a harder direct start that begins on the overhanging face and goes to the ledge, but is difficult to protect on lead. It is probably in the 10 range. Five star route!!! -- While rated a 5.6, the bulging crux that moves to face about 2/3 to the top can be tricky and a fall would bounce you off a lower ledge. For this reason, this "should" be considered 5.7+/5.8-.

Submitted by: tgreene on 2007-06-20
Views: 741
Route ID: 46472

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6 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dirtking360 on 2009-12-07 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars tallest route at jamestown

a great easy line that eats nuts and basks in exposure. MUCH better than it looks from the ground.

Added: 2009-12-08

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: rockcowboy on 2009-02-07 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars good route

used mostly big nuts and a few mid to upper sized cams. 48" runners are reccomened to keep your rope from zigzaging to bad-there are good places to ste pro but they aren't in a direct line. lots of good places to stand to place gear or rest.

my buddy climbed it on top rope with a 60M and that was enough rope but I don't think you could do it with anything less.

Added: 2009-02-09

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: DrewC on 2008-05-17 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Festering Crabs, let the fun begin!

Great long, fun route. Followed the leader that day, I think between the three of us we climbed it twice apiece. The longest top rope i've ever seen. With a 60m rope we had to rely on rope stretch for both the belayer and climber to be anywhere near the ground to start. If you have a 70m rope or know somebody with one, use it if you are top roping this route. Otherwise, have fun!

Added: 2008-06-21

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: steelhands on 2005-11-26 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Sweet route, sustained with a few harder moves. Crux near the top with a comitting move.

Witnessed by: Jim Moisen
Added: 2005-11-26

Ratings
  Difficulty
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: tgreene on 2005-11-12 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2005-11-12

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