Tallest climb in the area. 90-95' and 20' to the right of Flaming Piss.
Follow the crack 20' to a large ledge and continue up staying right. There is a harder direct start that begins on the overhanging face and goes to the ledge, but is difficult to protect on lead. It is probably in the 10 range.
Five star route!!!
-- While rated a 5.6, the bulging crux that moves to face about 2/3 to the top can be tricky and a fall would bounce you off a lower ledge. For this reason, this "should" be considered 5.7+/5.8-.
Submitted by: tgreene on 2007-06-20
Route ID: 46472
used mostly big nuts and a few mid to upper sized cams. 48" runners are reccomened to keep your rope from zigzaging to bad-there are good places to ste pro but they aren't in a direct line. lots of good places to stand to place gear or rest.
my buddy climbed it on top rope with a 60M and that was enough rope but I don't think you could do it with anything less.
Great long, fun route. Followed the leader that day, I think between the three of us we climbed it twice apiece. The longest top rope i've ever seen. With a 60m rope we had to rely on rope stretch for both the belayer and climber to be anywhere near the ground to start. If you have a 70m rope or know somebody with one, use it if you are top roping this route. Otherwise, have fun!