Average Rating : 3.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
Leinau Nov 06
Small cams (down to green alien), small stoppers, sling for a chickenhead or two. Natural anchor (but avoid rotten tree!) means long cordalette &/or Anchor off trees @ top (use long cordalette or the rope - 2nd tree is pretty far back) and be careful not
Sandy face route to the right of Triple Technique crack follows the seams up through steepish thinnish chickenhead terraces to the right of the big bulge. Original manky starter foot broke off from the bottom of the roof soon after the route was established, leaving a choice between a 5.10- direct start and a 5.8+ traverse from the crack. Rest of the route goes at 5.8+, with existant but inobvious pro and a committing finish. More or less sandy depending on recent weather.
Bring up the second and walk off - belay trees are well back from the edge.
Submitted by: leinosaur on 2007-10-30
Route ID: 81262
Starting in the crack is definitely the logical choice. The pro is small but good. I got a #1 tcu in the small crack before the .75 camalot placement. The rest could probably be done only on looped chickenheads, but there are tons of options for other pro.
Nice line in between triple technique and token. takes good pro and route is no gimmee. nice moves and good rocklead up to an interesting top out. Broken holds at start may complicate things, but you can always traverse in from the crack
DONT READ UNLESS YOU WANT THE BETA: 10/07 edit: just re-climbed this for the first time this season, found a doable direct start (2 crimps and a chip-foot) that goes at 5.10-something - which seemed to change up the sequence, get the adrenaline going, or something - further up there are some easier spots & definitely some rests, but I'd call the rest of it is solid 5.8 - knobbier at the bottom & slopier at the top. The pro is fairly particular: be ready with a .75 camalot for a pod 12-15 ft. up, then a green alien that is a nice fit bottomed-out in a down-and-out-facing seam at about 20, (or an orange metolius 4 cu) then tied off a chickenhead and put in a perfect #6 nut up high, just before the final fun bulge (several options here, too . ..). I didn't see many other options, until past the chickenhead. I just changed the safety rating to R since you have to a few good tricky moves before the cam - definitely R relative to other moderates at lincoln