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Castles Made of Sand - 5.10a

Average Rating = 3.50/5 Average Rating : 3.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
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Leinau Nov 06
Rock (Trad)
PG13
1
Small cams (down to green alien), small stoppers, sling for a chickenhead or two. Natural anchor (but avoid rotten tree!) means long cordalette &/or Anchor off trees @ top (use long cordalette or the rope - 2nd tree is pretty far back) and be careful not
46
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.67/5
  Scenery 3.67/5
  Fun Factor 4.33/5

Description:

Sandy face route to the right of Triple Technique crack follows the seams up through steepish thinnish chickenhead terraces to the right of the big bulge. Original manky starter foot broke off from the bottom of the roof soon after the route was established, leaving a choice between a 5.10- direct start and a 5.8+ traverse from the crack. Rest of the route goes at 5.8+, with existant but inobvious pro and a committing finish. More or less sandy depending on recent weather.

Descent Options:

Bring up the second and walk off - belay trees are well back from the edge.

Submitted by: leinosaur on 2007-10-30
Views: 806
Route ID: 81262

Most Recent Photo

4 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mystic04 on 2012-02-28 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars good route with small gear

hard start with fun climbing to the committing top. was my hardest trad onsite at the time.

Added: 2012-02-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: zeubanks on 2009-03-26 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Castles Made of Sand

Starting in the crack is definitely the logical choice. The pro is small but good. I got a #1 tcu in the small crack before the .75 camalot placement. The rest could probably be done only on looped chickenheads, but there are tons of options for other pro.

Added: 2009-03-26

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: berkly on 2006-12-11 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars 2nd Ascent?

Nice line in between triple technique and token. takes good pro and route is no gimmee. nice moves and good rocklead up to an interesting top out. Broken holds at start may complicate things, but you can always traverse in from the crack

Added: 2006-12-11

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: leinosaur on 2006-11-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars FA

DONT READ UNLESS YOU WANT THE BETA: 10/07 edit: just re-climbed this for the first time this season, found a doable direct start (2 crimps and a chip-foot) that goes at 5.10-something - which seemed to change up the sequence, get the adrenaline going, or something - further up there are some easier spots & definitely some rests, but I'd call the rest of it is solid 5.8 - knobbier at the bottom & slopier at the top. The pro is fairly particular: be ready with a .75 camalot for a pod 12-15 ft. up, then a green alien that is a nice fit bottomed-out in a down-and-out-facing seam at about 20, (or an orange metolius 4 cu) then tied off a chickenhead and put in a perfect #6 nut up high, just before the final fun bulge (several options here, too . ..). I didn't see many other options, until past the chickenhead. I just changed the safety rating to R since you have to a few good tricky moves before the cam - definitely R relative to other moderates at lincoln

Added: 2006-11-20