Great route linking the best of a couple others. Reference Peter Croft's "the good, the great and the awesome." Four pitches, short cruxes, three bolted belays (one gear belay) and an easy rappel w/ a 70 meter rope. "Great", but maybe not "awesome"
Rap with at least a 70m rope or scramble off
Submitted by: superbum on 2008-11-21
Route ID: 77046
First 5.10 trad climb (second). Definitely thought the third pitch was harder than the second. Direction changes were difficult due to lack of adequate directional gear placement. The off-width boulder crack at the top was tough as well. Got up but it wasn't pretty!
I think P2 might be the best pitch I've been on. I thought P1 and P3 had harder sections. P1 is very thin pro, P2 starts with #2 size slammer hands, but you won't use another #2 after that section so no worries. P3 had a thin section that was mere tips, but my partner fit in a couple fingers in the same spot. P4 is pretty short, the 'stairs' to the left to the rap anchors are a relief after the chimney moves. If you keep traversing left there is first a sling / rap ring, but further around a rope stretching 60m single rope rappel to the gulley behind.