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Chapusero - 5.11a

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 6
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Rock (Sport)
10 bolts
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure (Not Rated)
  Rock Quality (Not Rated)
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor (Not Rated)


Same start as This Aint No Weenie Roast. At the third bolt, go right to a finger crack, then up the left side of Wild Wills Arete with technical moves.

Submitted by: pyrosis on 2009-07-21
Views: 658
Route ID: 82004

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: charlenelieu on 2009-06-18 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars manic depressive

It's a great climb with everything... pumpy jug start, baby roof pull, face, finger crack, arete layback. The one thing it's not is an 11a. After the finger crack, It's insanely easy if you go up the arete to the right of the bolt line (per all the guidebooks)... frankly, it's more like a 10b. If you think the bolts seems misplaced (ie too far left), it's because to truly achieve 11-dom, you must head up the face to the LEFT of the bolt line, making it more like a 11c.

So in summary:
If you want an ego boost go up to the right of the bolt line on the arete.
If you want an ego downer go up to the left of the bolt line on the face.

Added: 2009-06-20

  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: pyrosis on 2004-07-01 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Yeah

Again, better than the book would make it sound. But, kind of a squeeze job. Its too easy to get pulled right onto ledges.

Added: 2006-12-18