This dirty, loose rock infested route starts just to the left of the lowest point of the south face, proceeds up and right via a 3rd/4th class gully for 800', then up and left via a dirty, loose book system for about 5 pitches (5.7 with death blocks...do NOT go thru tunnel block...guidebook and topo error). at the top of the book system, climb straight up past a bolt to a 5.6 chimney, then up and left again for about 6 pitches on or near an arete, then cross down and RIGHT to near the top of a gulley (SECOR ERROR) , then up to the top of gulley, and down backside to sandy ledges. go up and left again (4th class and sand) to a keyhole, then up and right (sandy ledges) 200' to a chimney. 60 feet of chimney, exit up and right on a dike to another chimney, belay at base. Climb the (flared) chimney and the face on it's left for one pitch (5.8) to a big ledge, then traverse (exposed) left for one pitch to the base of a huge chimney. Follow this (5.3) one pitch to the top. Descend East Slopes.
Submitted by: graniteboy on 2006-06-19
Route ID: 77608