Skip to Content

North Arete - 5.6

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (7)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock
G
Gear to 3".
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Getting onto the main arete seems to be a matter of taste. The farther up the east coulour you go, the easier the climbing gets. Traverse to the arete, then up a bit onto the west side. Here there are several fun vertical cracks you can climb back to the arete. Ascend to a pronouced hand traverse to the east side of the arete, ending at the base of a dihedral hand crack. Follow this to the top, where it opens up and bulges in a cruxy finish. Optionally belay a few hundred feet south to the true summit. The whole thing can be done in 5 to 10 pitches, depending on your choice of route and belay stations.

Submitted by: cyberhobo on 2008-03-26
Views: 1015
Route ID: 23328

Most Recent Photos

7 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 7 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: buju on 2007-07-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars my little sis's first mountain

difficult routefinding at the bottom

Added: 2007-11-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: vortenberg on 2005-06-03 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Matterhorn North Arette

When you are on an overhanging hand crack you know that you are not on the 5.5 variation anymore.

Added: 2007-11-14

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: graniteboy on 1991-08-15 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Yup

Took Alejandro and Rachel up it.

Added: 2007-11-08

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: pellucidwombat on 2004-08-08 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars First three-person trad climb

And the route had the most exposed crack climbing I have done to date. Very fun and very scenic

Added: 2007-09-08

Ratings
  Difficulty
Flash Flash ascent by: jay07 on 2005-08-20 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Witnessed by: Aaron Johnson, Tony Brown
Added: 2005-08-20

... Read all 7 ascent notes