Getting onto the main arete seems to be a matter of taste. The farther up the east coulour you go, the easier the climbing gets. Traverse to the arete, then up a bit onto the west side. Here there are several fun vertical cracks you can climb back to the arete. Ascend to a pronouced hand traverse to the east side of the arete, ending at the base of a dihedral hand crack. Follow this to the top, where it opens up and bulges in a cruxy finish. Optionally belay a few hundred feet south to the true summit. The whole thing can be done in 5 to 10 pitches, depending on your choice of route and belay stations.
Submitted by: cyberhobo on 2008-03-26
Route ID: 23328