Routes : North America : United States : California : Bishop and Eastern Sierra : Mt. Goode : Mt. Goode : North Buttress
North Buttress - 5.9
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Rock
1 set of nuts, 4-6 TCUs (00 thru 2, or the whole set), .75 and #3 C4s, & a few hexes for mid sizes.
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Description:
Detailed topo here
7-9 pitches, depending on how you climb it.
P1: 4th class slab to 5.8 thin hands
P2: 5.8 hand/fist crack in a corner. Traverse left to a ledge to belay. (P1&P1 can be linked if you solo the 4th class slab and belay at the ledge just before the 5.8 tight hands pitch)
P3: Look for a piton in the face to the left and traverse past it and into a chimney. Supplement the piton with the available placement just below and right of it. Either chimney (looks hard!) or climb the face (protected w/ TCUs) left of the chimney to a loose section of easy rock. Sling a boulder just below the big tower on the left for a belay.
P4: A short, loose pitch leads to a ledge just below a steep, thin crack pitch.
P5: Lead up the thin cracks in the corner to a ledge.
P6: lead up the crack system in the chimney to a belay above. (P5 & P6 can be linked).
P7: Follow easy 5th class terrain up the ridge to the right of the big tower to a talus covered ledge.
P8: Climb up and left in cracks to a tunnel through to a big ledge.
P9: Climb steep cracks straight up the ridge then to a mantle on to the summit or head left to easier terrain and miss out on the awesome topout!
Submitted by: trenchdigger on 2005-08-15
Views: 118
Route ID: 68900
Most Recent Photos
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4 Ascents Recorded
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| Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by:
Not the best Sierras route
This was my first alpine route in the Sierras after I moved to CA and I was afraid it was representative. Luckily, I have found that most other Sierras classics are worlds better. This route has some good views and positions, but the rock quality is quite poor.
Added: 2007-03-30
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Ascent Note
7 pitches. 12 hrs car-car
Added: 2005-08-13
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Ascent Note
No comment
Witnessed by: Julian Wixson, Andrew Swain
Added: 2004-07-05
Added: 2004-07-05
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Ascent Note
No comment
Added: 2004-02-25
