Full East Arete. Great day out with Peter S. 2nd day in the Eastern Sierra, Cardinal Pinnacle offered exceptional crack climbing yesterday, Humphreys gave me an alpine fix today. 8hrs+ car to car. Creek crossing on return at 4:pm was no worries for any truck in my opinion. If from the Canadian Rockies, we would call this a difficult scramble. We soloed, no rope or harnesses. Really easy terrain, super solid rock for what I am use to. Ridge snow free for most part. We should have had alpine axes for a much quicker descent (then without) down the snow field at the col but doable without an ax, just not advised. Along with another solo individual, 2nd registered ascent of the season. Beautiful country. About 5800' total gain registered on watch, couple hundred feet lost to col. Like an Alpine III in the Canadian Rockies. Beautiful camp site by the creek.
got effed up on the approach, ran out of daylight. Finished the ridge but didn't top out the summit (D'oh!). 14 hours C2C.
If you want to do the easiest approach, park at the col de sac and head straight up to the little lake. From there head up right to the notch between the peak and the ridge, and start from there. Adds a few thousand feet of fun climbing and saves you from slogging up talus and scree.
We used a short skinny rope and a superlight rack. Went a little slower than we'd hoped and got hailed on a bit near the summit, but made it down to the lake with plenty of time to get bit to hell by mosquitos.