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East Buttress - 5.7 popular

Average Rating = 4.93/5 Average Rating : 4.93 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (34)
Rock
.4 to #3 camalot, and some tied runners (to sling blocks)
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.62/5
  Rock Quality 4.54/5
  Scenery 4.92/5
  Fun Factor 4.85/5

Description:

Super classic, and more sustained than the East Face. Variations exist from 5.7 to 5.9. Check out supertopo.com for beta (buy the "High Sierra Select" Topo--it's awesome!)

Submitted by: njari on 2004-05-27
Views: 916
Route ID: 53468

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34 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 34 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: shong on 2009-08-31 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Classic

I don't want to detract from this climb, but I actually had more fun on the East Face. I guess E.Buttress seemed more straightforward, less unique pitches on it than the E.Face. Or maybe it's because we 1st climbed E.Face, then Fishhook Arete on Mt. Russell (my fave of the 3), so by day 3, this was just run of the mill :) If you want a really long approach, try hiking the John Muir Trail to the base :-p

Added: 2009-10-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Ian_F on 2009-07-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Best Scenery Ever

Spectacular views. Iceberg lake looked amazing all the way up. Rock was a little loose, and routefinding was amazingly difficult.

Added: 2009-08-16

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lcmountaindude on 2009-07-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars East Butt with snow

Start early,6:00 am or the afternoon showers will get you some extra adventure. Pitch 8 is REALLY fun with some white stuff on it. Can be extra REALLY fun with lightening too! Solid 5.6 moves on most pitches. Can make some 5.7 variations and still stay on route. Not much shelter from the elements.

Added: 2009-07-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: wcm on 2009-06-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars East Buttress

Unbelievable climb, such grand scenery, couldn't find the downclimb above the waterfall at the ledges long into the nite, nap'd till the sun came up. Personal record to beat now, lol!

Added: 2009-06-29

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: amax on 2009-06-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars onsight

Superb! We did a 5.8 variation in one (very) long day. Started at Whitney portal. Led pp1-8, soloed the rest of the route to the top.

Added: 2009-06-21

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