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East Buttress - 5.7 popular

Average Rating = 4.86/5 Average Rating : 4.86 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (41)
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Rock
.4 to #3 camalot, and some tied runners (to sling blocks)
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.56/5
  Rock Quality 4.56/5
  Scenery 4.94/5
  Fun Factor 4.89/5

Description:

Super classic, and more sustained than the East Face. Variations exist from 5.7 to 5.9. Check out supertopo.com for beta (buy the "High Sierra Select" Topo--it's awesome!)

Submitted by: njari on 2004-05-27
Views: 2822
Route ID: 53468

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41 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: leoand23 on 2013-09-06 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Got off route after Peewee

Lead the whole route. Party of three on a 70m 9.8 rope. P3 was the best. We got off route after the Peewee and went right to a small chimney to a very awkward off cupped hands and short off-width (10b ??) that drained all our energy but managed to pull the on-sight. (10 hours to climb, 3 hours to descend the terrible mountaineers route)

Added: 2013-09-09

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: drclimber on 2013-05-27 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Ryan Carrasco

Fun and secure accent, scarry descent by the Mountaneers Route

Added: 2013-06-13

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Solo Solo ascent by: DocGF on 1988-07-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Solo Ascent of Mount Whitney, East Buttress Route

Approach is the trail to Iceberg Lake from Whitney Portal. Equipment needed: Tent, Sleeping Bag, Large Pack, Day pack, Food / Water purification kit; Standard Climbing Rack; Hiking boots; Rock climbing Shoes; and warm clothing (it gets cold at this Altitude). I would allow at least 1-2 days for the approach/acclimatization; 1 day for the climb and descent; and 1 day to hike back out. You can camp at Whitney Portal (9000+Ft), at the end of the paved road, on the way in; or you can hike in to Boyscout Lake, or all the way to Iceberg Lake (13,500'), on Day 1. Boyscout lake is much nicer, but you still have a couple of hours left on the approach to the base of the East Buttress, just above Iceberg Lake. The summit is approx 14,500'); approximately 10 pitches, a fair amount of which is class 4. There are some exposed areas with upper level class 5 (around 5.6-5.8), but nothing exceedingly difficult. I roped up for these, climbed them on lead using an ascender to belay myself, rappelled down, then climbed the pitch again, retrieving my protection. I carry a double 8.5 mm 60 meter rope system which allows pitches and rapels of >160 feet. There are a number of route variations on the way up, some a bit easier than others. I was the only one on the East Buttress this day, although I did see a group of three on the Mountaineers Route. They were camped at Iceberg and were just getting up as I was arriving from my base camp at Boyscout Lake. Keep in mind, If you try to do the approach and the route too fast, without acclimatizing, you may very well have a first hand experience with Acute Mountain Sickness (headache, nausea, vomiting, and general malaise). Take your time, and spend a few nights camping and enjoying your surroundings. The overall experience will be much more enjoyable.



Added: 2011-08-01

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: quiteatingmysteak on 2011-07-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars .

4:15 on route with mom!

Added: 2011-07-30

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: zealotnoob on 2009-09-16 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars long glorious day

onsight car to car, back in time for a steak dinner. so good.

Added: 2010-11-08

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