Start left of Left wing Extremist and gain the obvious ledge on the left side of the east face. take parallel cracks that join for several pitches to ledge on arete of the east face. Traverse straight right to an off-width and gain a large right facing dihedral. Do not climb this, but cross over to the right the outer edge of the most prominent right facing dihedral on the left side of the East face. This is the crux 10c. Follow cracks and corners to summit. About 14 pitches long.
Submitted by: rocknroll on 2006-08-19
Route ID: 79089
Did this route in 11 hours (21 hours car-to-car) with Shay. We got off route somewhere in the middle but managed to get back on track. (We climbed the offwidth that the description here clearly says "do not climb"... doh! It was hard!)
At one point I did a dyno on lead to what turned out to be a sloper, then I was forced to climb a bunch of face holds before I could get back to the crack... whooo!
Loads of offwidth and flaring hand-cracks made this a pretty physical route. We brought a double set of cams to #2 camalot, a single #3 and a big hex and that was about right.