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From Chocolate to Morphine - 5.11d

Average Rating = 4.60/5 Average Rating : 4.60 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (10)
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Rock (Sport)
G
1
bolts
99
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.43/5
  Rock Quality 4.43/5
  Scenery 4.14/5
  Fun Factor 4.88/5

Description:

Starts in the corner at the Faulty Towers. Climb the easy dihedral past 2 bolts then move out to the right on the face for a few more before pulling a small roof into a larger overhang. Very cool moves for the gorge.

Descent Options:

lower off

Submitted by: bandidopeco on 2007-10-24
Views: 1365
Route ID: 89941

10 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 10 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
Flash Flash ascent by: critterdude542 on 2014-01-04 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars chocolate

super pumpy and very fun! Crux up high right after a good shake. Seemed not too hard for 11d

Added: 2014-01-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: gregory_huey on 2010-10-16 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Not as hard as I was expecting

This route - though fun - does not seem as hard or sustained as other ORG 11ds I tried.

Screwed up the sequence pulling the roof - this was the crux for me - otherwise got it clean and didn't think it was all that hard. If I can remember my beta I should bag the redpoint next run.

Definitely needed my 70m rope on this one.


Added: 2010-10-23

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: monicaj on 2010-04-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Jug hall

Just keep holding on to those jugs

Added: 2010-05-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: kyleht287 on 2009-12-24 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars One of the Best!

This route is incredible, absolutely incredible. Easy crack climbing in a dihedral leads to a roof and then a steep, pumpy headwall to finish. Crux is up high, good luck not being pumped!

Added: 2009-12-28

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: A-Bowl on 2009-06-05 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars another fun pump

had to down climb a bit to change up the sequence... overall pretty cool.

Added: 2009-06-07

... Read all 10 ascent notes