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Lalaland - 5.11c

Average Rating = 4.38/5 Average Rating : 4.38 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (9)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.33/5
  Rock Quality 4.50/5
  Scenery 4.33/5
  Fun Factor 4.67/5

Description:

Next route left of "from chocolate to morphine" Start in a 5.9+ crack, follow big holds on a face to a steep and sustained mini dihedral that angles right. Crux atthe very end.

Submitted by: superbum on 2007-01-15
Views: 667
Route ID: 76029

9 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 9 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: souclimber on 2011-05-31 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Nice line

Fun climbing lower to an overhanging sustaied face above. Good moves and nice exposure.

Added: 2011-05-31

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: kyleht287 on 2010-12-12 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Clean Redpoint-WHEW

This is quite a challenging route, pump-wise. Great moves, really pumpy. This slaughtered my arms for the rest of the day.

Added: 2010-12-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: kvochatzer on 2010-06-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars serious rope drag

Very fun climbing and great moves all over the top half of the climb. I did some seriously hard rope pulling due to rope drag while leading this climb. Perhaps this was because I used short draws combined with the curving in and left first half with the curing right and slightly negative second half. Use some longer draws to minimize rope dragging and pinching between the rock and the biners. Very fun climbing. Likely could have flashed this if it weren't literally for the one and two-handed rope yanking while edging. To me, I really didn't feel much of an 11c move at the top... it all made sense and was not that difficult.

WARNING: Use only a 70 m rope. We did and still had to meet a couple of feet off the ground. Belayer tie and knot with the end of the rope!

Added: 2010-07-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: kyleht287 on 2009-12-24 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Excellent Route

This route is amazing, really varied and interesting climbing! One 10a crux, one 11b, and one 11c crux! Didn't do it clean...yet! MUAHAHA!

Added: 2009-12-28

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: A-Bowl on 2009-06-04 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun route to crush

Got high right before entering Lalaland and laughed my way through it.

Added: 2009-06-07

... Read all 9 ascent notes