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Swiss Arete - 5.7

Average Rating = 4.75/5 Average Rating : 4.75 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (15)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.33/5
  Rock Quality 3.83/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.67/5

Description:

About 6 pitches of very nice granite. Approach is pretty straightforward. After crossing the moraine, head up staying on the left most side of the glacier. Around a corner quite a ways up the glacier is Glacier Notch, Class 3. At the top of Glacier Notch, head toward the butress of the North east arete and follow the obvious North east arete. The descent has given some people trouble, but is fairly easy. From the summit, head northwest (right) till you can down climb the talus toward the minor gulley which has been under and to your right as you did the route. Some people do a short rap or 2 here. A traverse to the right may be necessary to get above the notch. Watch for loose stuff, and use your brain. Head down the notch until a snowfield and then talus leads back to Glacier Notch.

Submitted by: salamanizer on 2004-12-23
Last Modified: 2007-08-02
Views: 713
Route ID: 62727

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15 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: quiteatingmysteak on 2010-08-15 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars .

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Added: 2010-08-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Ebird on 2010-07-28 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Start at the bottom!

We started at the very bottom and it was fairly easy routefinding with no move harder than 5.7 and some fun climbing! We did it in 7 pitches with a 60m rope. The descent had some loose 4th class, but was fairly easy.

Added: 2010-08-01

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: evanwish on 2008-09-08 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great route

I got the oppertunity to lead all the pitches on this route, we started out at the very botom of the arete making it 8 full pitches.

P1: started at the very base of the arete
P5: crux
P6: was 5.easy and i ended up placing two pieces in the whole 180' pitch
P7: final pitch, included the chimney

Added: 2008-09-08

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: runningitout on 2007-08-10 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars With Caleb Smith

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Added: 2007-10-10

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: boglins on 2007-08-29 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars First alpine climb

This was my first climb at altitude...pretty good route

Added: 2007-09-09

... Read all 15 ascent notes