About 6 pitches of very nice granite. Approach is pretty straightforward. After crossing the moraine, head up staying on the left most side of the glacier. Around a corner quite a ways up the glacier is Glacier Notch, Class 3. At the top of Glacier Notch, head toward the butress of the North east arete and follow the obvious North east arete. The descent has given some people trouble, but is fairly easy. From the summit, head northwest (right) till you can down climb the talus toward the minor gulley which has been under and to your right as you did the route. Some people do a short rap or 2 here. A traverse to the right may be necessary to get above the notch. Watch for loose stuff, and use your brain. Head down the notch until a snowfield and then talus leads back to Glacier Notch.
Submitted by: salamanizer on 2004-12-23
Last Modified: 2007-08-02
Route ID: 62727
We started at the very bottom and it was fairly easy routefinding with no move harder than 5.7 and some fun climbing! We did it in 7 pitches with a 60m rope. The descent had some loose 4th class, but was fairly easy.