u-notch, chimney variation | Rock Climbing Routes

Routes : North America : United States : California : Bishop and Eastern Sierra : Palisades, The : North Palisade : u-notch, chimney variation

Average Rating : 3.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (8)

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First Ascent:

Type of Climb:

Rock

Safety Rating:

Pitches:

Protection:

Couloir: light ice/snow rack. Rock: An alpine rock rack; bring a few hexes, a few cams, and some nut

Length :

Consensus Ratings
Difficulty	5.4 WI2
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Description:

The route starts with an approx 700 ft snow / ice climb at a starting elevation of ~13,000 ft. this is the dominant couloir on the north face leading from the glacier. Often the crux of the climb is making it over the bergschrund at the base of the couloir, especially during drought years. Once you reach the top of the chute there is a chimney/dihedral on your right, rated 5.4, but, like all altitude climbig, feels a little harder. Traverse up to the summit. There are two rap stations with numerous slings and rap rings (one had over 8 last time i was up). enjoy one of the best the eastern sierra has to offer

Submitted by: graniteboy on 2003-07-16
Views: 1069
Route ID: 8332

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