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u-notch, chimney variation - 5.4

Average Rating = 3.50/5 Average Rating : 3.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (8)
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Couloir: light ice/snow rack. Rock: An alpine rock rack; bring a few hexes, a few cams, and some nut
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.4 WI2
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5


The route starts with an approx 700 ft snow / ice climb at a starting elevation of ~13,000 ft. this is the dominant couloir on the north face leading from the glacier. Often the crux of the climb is making it over the bergschrund at the base of the couloir, especially during drought years. Once you reach the top of the chute there is a chimney/dihedral on your right, rated 5.4, but, like all altitude climbig, feels a little harder. Traverse up to the summit. There are two rap stations with numerous slings and rap rings (one had over 8 last time i was up). enjoy one of the best the eastern sierra has to offer

Submitted by: graniteboy on 2003-07-16
Views: 910
Route ID: 8332

8 Ascents Recorded

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  Difficulty 5.4 WI2
  Safety Rating G
Solo Solo ascent by: graniteboy on 2007-09-13 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars solo

Han solo.

Added: 2007-11-08

  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: boglins on 2007-08-31 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Ice climbing in summer

First ice leading experience. Lots of rock fall...

Added: 2007-09-09

Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: njari on 2004-09-05 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

John led every pitch (well done!). Actually, we only did the first ~500 ft.

The right side was really melted out, making the slope about 70 degrees.

Added: 2004-09-05

Red Point Red Point ascent by: crap on 2003-07-05 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Did the peak to the south

Added: 2003-07-05

Onsight Onsight ascent by: romain on 2001-05-07 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Rene led both pitches in the chimney.

Witnessed by: Rene Renteria
Added: 2001-05-07

... Read all 8 ascent notes