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Moon Goddess Arete (IV) 5.8* - 5.8

Average Rating = 4.56/5 Average Rating : 4.56 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (13)
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Rock (Trad)
1200
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.71/5
  Rock Quality 3.57/5
  Scenery 4.86/5
  Fun Factor 4.57/5

Description:

Scramble out left on ledges from the left hand couloir to the edge fo the slabby buttress. wander up and left, then back up and right for a few hundred feet of moderate climbing to where the arete steepens and becomes more prominent. Climb a few pitches to an intimidating gendarme which is passed on the right by a steep 5.7 traverse to the notch behind it. Another pitch leads to the tall Ibrium Tower. Climb a 5.8 crack, then go up and right around the right edge of the tower to ledges which are followed further right to another crack. A pitch up this takes you to the top of the tower. From here the route follows the arete, rappels into a notch, and continues on for another four or five pitches (up to 5.8) to the talus slopes, turning most difficulties on the right. Go to the top.

Submitted by: jorgle on 2007-01-31
Last Modified: 2007-08-02
Views: 989
Route ID: 43559

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13 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: quiteatingmysteak on 2011-08-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars .

fun and worth doing. Was it a bit loose? sure, but that can be fun sometimes, too!

Getting up ibrium tower I climbed the far left side of it... whoops. 5.8 roof to a loooooose flake (5.8?) into a really awesome fingercrack in a dihedral. Fingercrack was probably hard 9, maybe 10a.... feet were kitty littering all over so that might have added to it. After finishing traversed back left and was ~20 feet h igher than was supposed to be on 3rd which meant some exciting 5th downclimbing to regain it.

A better idea would be to take my variation (5.9+ with 5.8R sections) to the splitter headwall, thus avoiding all the traversing and the silly pitches regaining it :))

Added: 2011-08-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: critterdude542 on 2011-07-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Awesome

This was great!
Car to car in 17 hours. Route was a bit loose and not sustained but has amazing exposure and great climbing! Can't wait to do sun ribbon

Added: 2011-07-01

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: madrusski on 2008-07-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Temple Crag - Moon Goddess Arete

Awesome route - not as much ridge walking as on the other ones.

Added: 2008-07-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: madrusski on 2008-07-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Very Nice Route

Simuled up to the traverse around the first tower. The rest is very fun. Linked a few pitches higher up. 5h to the summit.


Added: 2008-07-08

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: blouderk2 on 2006-08-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

We had to bail off into the escape gulley around pitch 8 and climbed 4th/5th class to the top because of a late start. Supertopo calls this way 5.7. Although I'll be back someday for the full arete. Calling it a ascent nonetheless.

Added: 2007-06-22

... Read all 13 ascent notes