Awesome old school .10a...be very comfy at the grade. Awesome finger crack to perfect hands in a corner to a scary lieback block w/ no feet into a chimney then an exposed exit traverse to the rap anchors. SWEET!
Submitted by: superbum on 2006-06-07
Route ID: 37810
Great climb. The (optional 6in pice is a must unless you want to run out the crux only protected by your last nut placement.) and the rap down... I was told you could rap with a 60meter rope. unless there was another set of rap anchors that are not there anymore I don't see how this is possible. Getting down was interesting. All in All A Must Do Classic!!!
This is a must-do classic. I was conned into leading this route 9 months into climbing with only having 10 leads of <5.8 climbing. The protection is good and the route is commiting and fantastic. It is one of the purest lines I have seen in the area on a laser-cut dihedral. I highly recommend it. A 100m rope will let you rap in one shot just barely. (Took twice and french-freed a few times.)