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Red Dihedral (Ygdrasil) - 5.10b

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Bard, Farrell, Locke
Rock (Trad)
G
12
Standard rack through 3"
1200
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

This is a beautiful route that ascends a prominent dihedral on the Incredible Hulk.

Descent Options:

The downclimb to the rap anchors is quite exposed and would be very sketchy in the dark. Take the gully to the South (right) and follow the left wall down (there is another gully the heads right after you descend a bit, however it cliffs out). The scre

Submitted by: gjlaidig on 2007-09-17
Views: 588
Route ID: 88462

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: quiteatingmysteak on 2011-08-18 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Yus!

Did it last week with my buddy, 13 hours C2C including waiting behind a party, not too bad! Great climbing through and through, don't do this as your first sierra route because it will make all the others seem dreary! Not as difficult as I had built it up, after pitch 4 you are pretty much done with any hard climbing. The 10a splitter is straight forward, great pro, the few 5.9 sections are short and well protected, the 5.8 chimney at the top is really like a 5.6 blocky thingy...

Oh, I'm 5.8 160lbs and I BARELY fit through that keyhole thingy. If I was 15 lbs heavier I would probably have to tie the rope around my waist and hand off my harness to fit. It was TIGHT.

take extra in the 1.5" size for the red dihedral (green camalot) and link the first two pitches. GREAT climbing through and through, descent was NTB. If you practice swift climbing on lower elevations and easier routes (which most people do not I notice) it is VERY doable in a day - anytime I onsight over 10c is a GOOD day on a single pitch, this felt very doable as a long alpine route. Build fast belays, don't hang out on them, and second swiftly - this route is a blast! Can't wait to train hard and come back to do positive vibes!

Added: 2011-08-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: gjlaidig on 2007-08-04 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars A Big Day on the Incredible Hulk!

We did this route car to car in 16 hours. We linked pitches 2-3, 5-6 and did 8-10 in two pitches. The red dihedral pitch is certainly the business on this route. It is very physical as the left wall is buttery slick and the right wall is at an odd angle. Finding rest positions during this pitch was quite challenging! I was so zapped from the lower parts of this pitch that I hardly noticed the .10b section. The upper pitches are not difficult but the long day started taking its toll. Beware the tunnel through at the top of pitch 12 if you have a husky build.

Added: 2007-09-11