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Premier Route - 5.8 A0

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
Premier Sponsor:
F. Beckey, B. Goechel
Rock (Trad) Aid
G
5
Rack to 3", new bolts to French-free the short 10c section (originally aid climbed).
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 2.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.00/5

Description:

Another Becky route (5.8 A0 or 10c). Start at a small pine tree. Gear to 3". Traverse right to a bush in a crack. Head up brushy grainy cracks to the top of a pinnacle (or just below if using a 60m rope). Climb a thin face (10c) or aid (A0) up using 4 moderately spaced bolt hangers. Need to make a sketchy un-aided move to a 5th bolt then back to easier 5.8 face and final hand crack.

Descent Options:

Three double rope rappels down the west face on new anchor stations into the gully left (west) of the buttress. Alternative: continue to climb for 2 pitches of 3rd/4th class to top of buttress and then rappel 30m and some down-climbing to reach the same

Submitted by: namascar on 2008-04-03
Last Modified: 2011-11-09
Views: 686
Route ID: 56039

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: sierragal93546 on 2011-10-30 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars First aid climb

Led first pitch, crux at start. Used prusik to aid up th 10c crux on 3rd pitch. Crumbly face and scrubby cracks. Not that great.

Added: 2011-11-08

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: namascar on 2004-07-17 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Great route.

Added: 2004-07-17