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Direct South Face - 5.8

Average Rating = 2.00/5 Average Rating : 2.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Standard rack to 3"
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure (Not Rated)
  Rock Quality (Not Rated)
  Scenery (Not Rated)
  Fun Factor (Not Rated)


This dirty, loose rock infested route starts just to the left of the lowest point of the south face, proceeds up and right via a 3rd/4th class gully for 800', then up and left via a dirty, loose book system for about 5 pitches (5.7 with death NOT go thru tunnel block...guidebook and topo error). at the top of the book system, climb straight up past a bolt to a 5.6 chimney, then up and left again for about 6 pitches on or near an arete, then cross down and RIGHT to near the top of a gulley (SECOR ERROR) , then up to the top of gulley, and down backside to sandy ledges. go up and left again (4th class and sand) to a keyhole, then up and right (sandy ledges) 200' to a chimney. 60 feet of chimney, exit up and right on a dike to another chimney, belay at base. Climb the (flared) chimney and the face on it's left for one pitch (5.8) to a big ledge, then traverse (exposed) left for one pitch to the base of a huge chimney. Follow this (5.3) one pitch to the top. Descend East Slopes.

Submitted by: graniteboy on 2006-06-19
Views: 860
Route ID: 77608

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: graniteboy on 2006-07-21 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Dirt, vegatation, and ant climb

Dirt Climb with 3 good pitches interspersed.

Added: 2007-10-30