Routes : North America : United States : California : Bishop and Eastern Sierra : Matterhorn Peak : North Buttress : North Arete

North Arete - 5.6

Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (7)

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First Ascent:

Type of Climb:

Rock

Safety Rating:

Pitches:

Protection:

Gear to 3".

Length :

Consensus Ratings
Difficulty	5.7
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Description:

Getting onto the main arete seems to be a matter of taste. The farther up the east coulour you go, the easier the climbing gets. Traverse to the arete, then up a bit onto the west side. Here there are several fun vertical cracks you can climb back to the arete. Ascend to a pronouced hand traverse to the east side of the arete, ending at the base of a dihedral hand crack. Follow this to the top, where it opens up and bulges in a cruxy finish. Optionally belay a few hundred feet south to the true summit. The whole thing can be done in 5 to 10 pitches, depending on your choice of route and belay stations.

Submitted by: cyberhobo on 2008-03-26
Views: 454
Route ID: 23328

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