The classic but slightly loose route right on the north buttress. Start just right of buttress, on a ledge that comes in from the left.
climb 1 and a half pitches (crux) up a dihedral,
then move left and into the crack system that takes you to the ugly chimney visible from the ground.
After that chimney (loose 5.7) head up and traverse mega many pitches on the ridge to the notch between the upper and lower parts of the crag.
Another 1 and a half pitches (weird) take you to the upper ridge; follow it forever and end up either descending mendenhall couloir or topping out (loose).
Submitted by: graniteboy on 2003-07-16
Last Modified: 2007-08-02
Route ID: 38098
Did the lower buttress on July 6 but bailed due to weather. Came back to finish it off. Did all 5.10 variaions - don't miss the final 5.10 wide pitch - it is stunning, sustained and is a highlight. This also allows for virtually no 3rd class walking on the route.