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Chips off the Old Block - 5.10a

Average Rating = 2.00/5 Average Rating : 2.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 2
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
Tai and Mary Devore, Jeremy Freeman, Adam Winters
Rock (Trad)
G
6
Standard rack to 3". Bolt anchors/mussy hooks. Single 60m rope.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 2.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 2.00/5

Description:

Cracks, corners, and slabs. The routes here are seldom climbed. Watch for crumbly sections and holds, particularly on the last pitch. Ascends a huge right-facing corner. in the first 3 pitches, then continues up obvious crack systems through ledges and entertaining terrain. Most of the climbing 5.8 with one sequence of 510a/b. P1-3: Climb a wide, flaring crack/groove in a large corner to a tricky bulge and a short squeeze section just before reaching the top of the pillar on a nice ledge (5.9). Bolt anchors. P4: Climb straight up, left of the tree thru the crack systems on the slab to a nice but short hand-crack after a bush, then finish on a short slab to the bolt anchor on a ledge (5.7) ...best pitch. P5: Scramble/walk up and right to the base of the next headwall. Climb the short hand crack to the arching thin finger/flaring finger groove/crack just right of the offwidth (crux-5.10a/b). Use the crack and edges to meet up with the offwidth and the ledge just higher up. Bolt anchor. P6: Scramble down and left to the base of the obvious large crack system. Climb up, over, or between large hollow flakes. If you go up the right, be prepared to do an eagle stretch to get to the central groove to the chimney with a bolt. Protection is sketchy in the groove but good holds about 1/4 way up. Squeeze up the "not quite small enough to call off-width but not quite big enough to be a chimney" squeeze chimney. Find a crack on the left wall that leads up and out to a large ledge (5.9). build an anchor to the left or scramble to the right to the rappel anchor next to the right-hand slab.

Descent Options:

Rappel the route (x6).

Submitted by: sierragal93546 on 2012-04-27
Views: 203
Route ID: 111330

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: sierragal93546 on 2012-04-21 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Funky

Got lost on the ascent. Went left too soon. Funky. Didn't like the squeeze chimney. Broke off a couple of holds. The crack/groove on the 6th pitch is hard to protect and a stretch. Bring slings.

Added: 2012-04-27