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Woodfords Canyon

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About Woodfords Canyon:

I have been told that there are hundreds of climbs in Woodfords Cyn but I know of only two areas which I will call the East and West Area. I don't know the names of the climbs but thought I'd just get something going on for more knowledgeable people to add to and at least a little beta for people that haven't been there. I won't list the climbs, just descriptions here. There is an old guide book probably not available anymore that is called something like Climbs of Lake Tahoe that probably provides much more info. The east area has a 10c crack climb that is 160 feet long and is a 5 star climb. Take a trad rack up to #3 camalot and a lot of nuts. There are TR/rappel anchors at the top and add'l anchors beyond the top. The climb goes up a crack through a roof then continue up a crack till you get to a right facing corner go left to a chimney and up to the anchors. The next climb left (20') is 11d bolted and is also excellent, very sustained. This climb shares anchors with another bolted climb to its left (40') which is probably 5.12 and goes up the arete. To the right (20') of the 10c crack is a 5.11 crack which goes to the right of the large right facing open book 3/4 up. Where the book starts there is an undercling traverse under a rook that has a bolt. The traverse is 5.11 and connects the 10c crack to this 5.11 climb. Continue up the book past one or two pins to lower off anchors. There are also TR/rapell anchors on top to the left of the route I just described. To the right (20') of this route is a 10+ crack climb. 20' to the right of this is a good 10a crack that goes right at the top to share top anchors with another crack climb 15' right. Go down the slope 150' and there are 2 more 11c crack climbs 20 feet apart. the one on the left has a pin down low and the one on the right has 2 bolts at the crux up high. the climb on the rt has TR/rapell anchors on top and the climb on the left has 2 naked bolts on top. The West area has a great 5.12 bolted arete. 40' to the left of the arete is a good 10d crack face climb that starts in a chimney. There is a pin up high (no anchors at the top but go right 25' to anchors). 30' to the right of the arete is a great 11b right facing dihedral which starts half way up. (There are TR anchors on the pedestal to the left of this climb and other anchors for ?? higher and left). 30' right of the 11b is a 10b right facing corner with anchors on top. 30' to the right of this is a 10a crack/corner/face climb that goes up to a ramp then continues up a wider crack (#3 camalot) to anchors.
Nearest town or city: Minden, Nv
Directions: This area is on highway 88 approx 3.1 miles east of Sorenson's resort and 1.8 miles west of the junction of highway 89 going to Markleville. There is a very large dirt turnout on the north side and just at the west end of this turnout there is a dirt road that goes south. Park where you can on this dirt road. The West area is directly above you and the East area is East 1/4 mile. To get to the West area go up a use trail which start directly above you. To get to the East area go up the dirt road 200 yds to a junction. Go right and near it's end find a use trail going left. Cross the creek and up to the cliff. There is a trail all the way up.
Latitude, Longitude: 38.77590, -119.82565
Access Issues:
When to Climb:
Quantity of Climbs: Month


SequenceSequence numbers indicate the left (L) to right (R) order of the routes. Rating Route Difficulty Ascents
10 Average Rating = 0.00/5 D-Cup 5.10c 0

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