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Stairway to Heaven - 5.4

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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NO BOLTS!! This is REAL TRAD. 1 set Nuts, 1 each cam's .75, 1, 2. large Hexes good for belays.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty (Not Rated)
  Safety Rating (Not Rated)
  Exposure (Not Rated)
  Rock Quality (Not Rated)
  Scenery (Not Rated)
  Fun Factor (Not Rated)

Description:

Same start as Triple Play, only keep going up and left. You will pass a tree (bomber belay, btw) and go into a chimney section. This route is extremely mungy, but goes all the way up. I mostly expected it to be an aid seam, but it turned out to be an easy free climb mostly the whole way. It was extremely dirty, long, and fun. 5-7 pitches of climbing (depending on belays). Go up the class 4 gully to the left of shadow wall, and follow that line all the way to the summit. Overall rating of the route: 5.4 2 pitches 5.5 3-4 pitches 5.6 1 chimney pitch Better with a partner No stars because the route has too many trees and shrubs. Also, get used to belaying from bushes equalized with a #5 stopper and a 0 TCU, cuz, thats what happens on the second to last pitch. Also, once you reach a more flat section with a BIG place to lie down (trust me, a rest is good at this point), stop roping up, cuz you are about 100' from the top, and its all 3rd class from there (that is a good place to pack up the rack and start shuttle gear to the top). After that point, you have one 5.5 chimney move (5.3 without a pack) to a trial leading to the top. Notes: bring two ropes for a couple traversing pitches, and retreat is not an option (at least not a fun or easy one).

Submitted by: redox on 2004-12-02
Views: 840
Route ID: 16900

2 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: redox on 2002-09-19 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

First Free Solo WILL be tomorrow.

Added: 2002-09-19

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: redox on 2002-05-05 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Enjoyed this solo, I would recommend it to people armed with a wire brush for some of the munge and an appetite for adventure, cuz its fun.

Added: 2002-05-05