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Swallow Crack - 5.6 popular

Average Rating = 3.58/5 Average Rating : 3.58 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (27)
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Rock (Trad)
G
1
Standard rack: larger nuts, cams to 3"
90
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.33/5
  Rock Quality 2.78/5
  Scenery 4.22/5
  Fun Factor 3.67/5

Description:

Look for an obvious crack that goes nearly all the way up. It's has some pretty wide sections and has a face climbing start on top of a small buttress. The top of the route is unprotectable and kind of runout to the chains. Suggest bringing shoes to walk down the backside unless you want to leave a rap sling. --- VALYGRL's edits: walk off, don't rap. "Runout" is maybe 15 feet of 5.2. RicardoL's edit: the guidebook shows 2 fixed piton -- after the first one, you'll also find a nut that has been hopelessly stuck, and the the 2nd piton has been replaced by a bolt. playouts1de's edit: That nut wasnt that hard to pull....and I thought it safer to pull the frayed nut as opposed to leaving it for future use/failure. Its on my rear view mirror if anyone wants to reclaim it ;) MattL edit: There is an easy rappel for this route - about 20 feet to the right there is a giant boulder above the ledge with 2 bolts and rap rings. A 60m rope just barely reaches the ground at the start of the climb. Top-roping this route can be tricky due to a bit of a swing - suggest using slings with the fixed pitons as directionals to top-rope. * I am the proud owner of so called "Stuck" nut. haha

Descent Options:

Rap from chains or walk off.

Submitted by: ricardol on 2007-01-15
Last Modified: 2013-01-06
Views: 1947
Route ID: 12767

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27 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: Highgloss on 2013-01-05 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Sketchy

But fun!

Added: 2013-01-05

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: el_pirata on 2012-02-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars great route

super sweet!

Added: 2012-02-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mc_galaxy on 2010-09-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Good route for transitioning to trad

Easy to protect route with medium nuts and small to medium cams.

Added: 2010-09-06

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: losinghand on 2010-03-29 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great climb - as much fun as Portent!

I thought this was a great climb. It's half face climbing on a left-leaning slab - and half using the crack in the dihedral to your right. You can treat it as a face, you can stem on it, or you can use the crack - varied climbing.

Protects very well with small-medium gear - and there were a pair of pitons and a stuck nut (still there as of March 2010) along the way to use. Top Roping this is tricky due to a fairly big swing from the anchors - I suggest using the pitons with some slings as directionals - and clipping them as you lower for the next climber. A 60m rope just reaches the ground.

Easy descent off to the right - rap station about 20 feet to the right on a giant boulder. You need a 60m rope to reach the ground - otherwise you can hike out back to the base of Discover Wall, or rap on a route with intermediate belay points like Portent.

Added: 2010-03-29

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Ebird on 1982-06-10 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Ascent note

Fun crack with some foot holds on face.

Added: 2009-06-25

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