This climb was originally 5.7/A2 but has been free-climbed at 5.10a. this climb is right at the junction of the High Peaks Trail and the Discovery Wall Trail. Start up the the 5.6 open book at the back of the left wall and then move right along the ceiling crack. After reaching the bolt at the far edge, take the easy crack/gully to the top. The ceiling traverse can be simplified by taking middle ledges across and jumping up to clip into pro.
Submitted by: polarwid on 2006-04-09
Route ID: 11270
Climbed this one with T.B, and with T Just took a while to figure out the moves... (going low rather than very high worked for me). The first time I climbed had to rest after placing gear b/c I place a bunch of gear trying to protect my follower who ended up not climbing the route. Getting out of the roof and to the chains was also powerful. If this were a sport route I would give it a 10b rating. There is a new route just under the roof (it was cool and probably 5.7 easy lead!)
Thought it would be cooler because it looks like you have to lieback the roof crack, but you don't. Don't trust the pitons, supplement with tcus. No great nut placements. The finish is tough to protect from pendulum swings so don't fall! Soft for the rating.