Starts a few feet right of Elephant Crack. Initially chimneys up a bit then angles right across the face, following the small crack, before angling back left in a near horizontal traverse, joining Elephant Crack for the last few feet to the summit.
Submitted by: polarwid on 2003-02-06
Route ID: 13618
The end of the approach walk is really not completely obvious, still not sure what the easiest way to get there is.
The first few moves of the climb are quite exposed, due to lack of protection placements and steep location of the belayer (Possible/Advisable to fix the belayer on the rock with a long cordelette/extra long sling).They happen to be the hardest on the climb, but still 5.6. Then it gets much easier all the way to the top, and easy to protect with cams. The scenery and the view are great when reaching the edge! Around the bush after the horizontal edge, I found it easier to go on the easy-to-protect vertical edge way on the right rather than inside the crack. Great holds.
The belay at the summit is ultra comfortable, the view is fantastic, and feeling to have reached a summit (not bad for a single pitch route!) - on a not busy day, make sure to get there around lunch time and enjoy it up there! Probably good also at sunset and/or sunrise!
Very fun, assuming you're thin enough to squeeze yourself into the very narrow start of the chimney. Rubine is right about the crack, although the thin-to-med pro you can get is restricted to a few specific pockets, IIRC.