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Regular Route - 5.6

Average Rating = 3.67/5 Average Rating : 3.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (6)
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Rock
PG13
Rubine says that small protection can be used in the thin crack following the initial chimney.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.67/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

Starts a few feet right of Elephant Crack. Initially chimneys up a bit then angles right across the face, following the small crack, before angling back left in a near horizontal traverse, joining Elephant Crack for the last few feet to the summit.

Submitted by: polarwid on 2003-02-06
Views: 509
Route ID: 13618

6 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: mwm88 on 2013-08-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Awesome climb

This was a super fun climb. The chimney was awesome, even though I had to climb up to actually get into it because it was too narrow at the base.

Added: 2013-09-08

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Superpedro on 2011-01-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great View at the summit

The end of the approach walk is really not completely obvious, still not sure what the easiest way to get there is.

The first few moves of the climb are quite exposed, due to lack of protection placements and steep location of the belayer (Possible/Advisable to fix the belayer on the rock with a long cordelette/extra long sling).They happen to be the hardest on the climb, but still 5.6. Then it gets much easier all the way to the top, and easy to protect with cams. The scenery and the view are great when reaching the edge!
Around the bush after the horizontal edge, I found it easier to go on the easy-to-protect vertical edge way on the right rather than inside the crack. Great holds.

The belay at the summit is ultra comfortable, the view is fantastic, and feeling to have reached a summit (not bad for a single pitch route!) - on a not busy day, make sure to get there around lunch time and enjoy it up there! Probably good also at sunset and/or sunrise!


Added: 2011-01-23

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: thechef on 2007-02-21 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars variation 5.6

Moving up the chimny for ten or so feet then break left onto the face and into the corner and up, fun variation than climbing to the ledge and left

Added: 2007-02-21

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: anson on 2005-05-16 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Very fun, assuming you're thin enough to squeeze yourself into the very narrow start of the chimney. Rubine is right about the crack, although the thin-to-med pro you can get is restricted to a few specific pockets, IIRC.

Added: 2005-05-16

Ratings
  Difficulty
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: rm_bayarea on 2004-05-02 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2004-05-02

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