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Bills Bad Bolts - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Bolts...sort of.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7 A1
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 2.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

Just left of the Twinkle Toes start. Climb up to the TT 1st pitch anchors.

Submitted by: ascender30 on 2004-10-10
Views: 1303
Route ID: 60772

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2 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7 A1
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: mwm88 on 2014-05-25 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun!

We started on lucky 13 (5.9), but I aided the first 9 or 10 bolts just to make it easy. The recent rebolting is awesome. I bypassed the anchor at the top of luck 13 and linked up with the easy 5th class pitch 2 traverse of alias bandit bench(5.8) and set up the belay at the base of Redline(5.7). My partner Anthony led redline and we sat and rested in the shade at the anchor at the bottom of Bill's Bad Bolts. Looking up at the route, it was intimidating. It was moderately overhanging and the first several bolts seemed to wander aimlessly. Most of the bolts were quite terrifying. They looked to be more of rusted up rivets that seemed to flex under body weight than bolts. The third bolt seemed to be newish, but didn't seem to be well set. It wasn't until I got to about the eighth bolt that I felt secure. It looked to be a shiny, solid 1/2 incher. After about 10 or 11 bolts, I made it past the overhang and the route went for another 9 or 10 bolts up a shallow, slightly less than vertical groove. Switching to free climbing at the top of the bolt ladder and climbing the short, maybe 15 feet or so to the anchor. The next 5.5 pitch was easy, however dirty and a little crumbly. The third pitch, 5.7, was short and well protected, but it was covered in dried up lichen that provided for a very insecure feel. From the top we walked down the meadow for our descent.

Added: 2014-05-27

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: ascender30 on 2004-07-25 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

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Added: 2004-07-25