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Pirates Cove

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About Pirates Cove:

Directions: Park in dirt lot. Go down the main trail veering right (don't go left down to beach) and then through the tunnel. As soon as you go through the tunnel, turn right. There is a short steep wall with anchors on top. The tunnel is good for bouldering also, but bring a brush because of all the soot from the fires people have set.There are two sets of anchors. To get to them, scramble to the very top of the formation. Bolts everywhere. None have hangers (one does but it sucks). There are also some odd large diameter bolts set in the rock (not climbing anchors). You should be able to rig something up, with webbing, and hangers and nuts if you have them. Bring a wrench and an assortment of nuts. The way up the left side is hard 5.10, the farther you start toward the cave the harder it gets. It is severely overhung on this side. Fun to try if you're bored, but not if you're looking for a half day of climbing. Scenic, and a novelty, but nothing great. Head down to the beach below for better bouldering. (I never found the anchors "left and around the corner" that Bootie talked about. I'll look again.) Directions for bouldering: Start in the far right side of the lot. Walk down the trail 100 feet, then turn right off the trail and head for the ocean. Head towards the cluster of rocks just offshore. Then find the rope that you use to batman down to the beach. It is attached to a metal spike. Great rock! Low tide gives you best access to the most rocks. Beware of nude people (or just go native and join 'em). Easy and hard stuff. I was surprised at how good the rock was. There are some hard high problems. Bring a pad if you have one.
Nearest town or city: Avila Beach
Directions: Drive like you were going to Avila Beach and when you are next to the golf course there's a road that turns left and heads up the mountain. This is Cave Landing Rd. Follow the road all the way to the dirt parking lot and head down the main trail.
Latitude, Longitude:
Access Issues:
Camping: None
When to Climb:
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