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Frontal Lobotomy - 5.10a

Average Rating = 3.80/5 Average Rating : 3.80 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (6)
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Rock (Trad)
2
Pro to 3.5", 1 bolt, gear anchors
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.50/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

P1 (5.9): offwidth to fingers, then a horizontal traverse to left. P2 (5.10a): finger to hand crack to top. Many scramble up to the start of second pitch, skipping the first pitch. Morning shade.

Descent Options:

Rap with two ropes off anchor of Circus Act to the right; or with one rope, rap and downclimb to a horn to rap off of that to ground. OR continue to summit to find rap slings. OR walkoff through squeeze chimney gap, up and around, down wide crack.

Submitted by: baja_java on 2002-03-07
Last Modified: 2007-05-20
Views: 487
Route ID: 13327

Most Recent Photo

6 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: bandidopeco on 2010-03-04 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars nice

Followed my friend

Added: 2010-03-10

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: snoopy138 on 2009-02-21 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars fun

pumpy

Added: 2009-04-12

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: julianw on 2008-11-29 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars asdf

my partner led the first pitch, i led the 2nd. need a #4 camalot for the offwidth.

Added: 2008-12-01

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: browshau on 2007-05-20 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Nice crack.

Added: 2007-09-30

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: briarpatch on 2006-11-11 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars did it

did both pitches. awkward start on p1, could have done without this pitch altogether unless for the difficulty. P2 is the biz, steep and stuff. pretty neat.

Added: 2006-12-08

... Read all 6 ascent notes