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Trespassers Will Be Violated - 5.10c

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4 bolts
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This classic line climbs the obvious dike on the south-west face of Little Hunk. If you've acquired a taste for runout slab, you'll find this to be one of the best face climbs in Joshua Tree. I consider it to be the Stitcher Quits of 5.10. Yet despite it's striking appearance and easy approach, it's rare to see a party on it. It goes into the sun in the late AM, making it ideal for cool winter days.
5.5 juggs lead to the first bolt - you'll be about 30 feet up now so go ahead and clip that sucker. Start traversing with your hands on the dike. There's a knob you can tie off about half way between the 1st and 2nd bolts - whether or not it would hold a fall is a crapshoot. A little ways after the 2nd bolt you'll want to climb upwards and get your feet on the dike. There's another bolt here which is part of the route Gun Shy. Clip it, or don't clip it if you want to do the route as it was done on the FA. But if you skip that bolt it might be a good idea to put a locker on the 2nd, it would be a disaster if that thing came unclipped during a fall. There's a couple crux moves here as you shuffle your feet along with poor handholds. It feels soft for 10c but it could just be that the rock is getting cleaner the more it gets climbed. After you clip the final bolt there's a 5.6 runout with another untrustworthy knob you can tie off if you want. Either head to the anchors off on the right, or go up and over the top (gear anchor here I believe, not sure about the walk-off).
The final runout is dangerous for the follower so make sure your partner is solid at the grade. If you want to climb this but can't find someone willing to follow you, you can go to the bolted anchors and get lowered off - essentially setting up a toprope on the climb. Then just switch places with your partner and clean the route yourself. If you've got a group of 3 or more and at least 2 ropes, it's possible to have the follower "lead" on another rope and re-clip behind him. This prevents a pendulum because he is being belayed from both ends. But someone will still have to clean the gear off.

Submitted by: byran on 2008-11-21
Views: 501
Route ID: 96949