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O'Kelley Crack - 5.11a

Average Rating = 4.27/5 Average Rating : 4.27 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 2
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (21)
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Rock (Trad)
to 3-4", several 1-2"
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.67/5
  Rock Quality 4.33/5
  Scenery 4.67/5
  Fun Factor 4.67/5


Awesome .10c hands with a couple of brief non-crux offwidth sections. The start is 5.11a at least, can be done with flaring fists to finger locks or via a crimpfest face traverse.

Submitted by: murf on 2002-10-07
Last Modified: 2006-12-19
Views: 1147
Route ID: 5101

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21 Ascents Recorded

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  Safety Rating G
Solo Solo ascent by: Jnclk on 2012-03-24 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars n/c

onsight free solo

Added: 2012-03-24

  Safety Rating G
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: lithiummetalman on 2011-01-16 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Up

The start, woah!!! Thank goodness for shoulder stands!

Added: 2011-01-17

  Safety Rating G
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: johnnygothard on 2010-11-07 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars .


Added: 2010-11-07

  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: gregory_huey on 2010-02-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Aided the 11c start, onsighted the rest (10c)

I tried to do the 11c start with a fistjam - though it did stick a little, its just wasn't enough to make the move. I finally gave up and aided past the first move. Got the the rest of the of the route clean. Got an elbow, then a knee jam near the end, but nearly came off in the last few (offwidth) moves. For me the crux was the end. Of course had I not aided the start, the first move would have been the crux. I later tried to toprope the start and still couldn't do it. I've seen the start rated as 11+ and 11c - I'd believe that (though obviously the difficultly of the fistjam is hand-size dependent). Overall, a good route. The only thing that would make it better would be closer match between the difficultly of the start and the rest of the route.

Added: 2010-02-15

  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: radioface on 2009-11-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Stellar

The start is harder than anything on Wangerbanger (5.11), and the rest is just awesome.

Added: 2009-11-11

... Read all 21 ascent notes